Gas Tank Fix?
11-11-2005, 03:02 PM
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11-11-2005, 05:35 PM
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Depends on theJag. The older XJ's, the rear bumper needs to come off then the rear lower side skirts. After that, you need to start unhooking lines and whatnot. Tough to get to some as they are not in convenient spots. You basically need 10 hands to do the job properly.
11-11-2005, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Louie928
Don't forget the socket headed bolt above the filler neck. It's usually hidden under about 1/2" of dirt and unidentifyable crud.
Except on Kryptonite ... the bolt, nut and some of the bracket was missing along with the retainer hoop and the rubber flap.
Cheers!
11-11-2005, 09:59 PM
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I worked on Kryptonite's tank today. Here is what I found. Using a micro torch -- the kind the crack heads use to light their pipes with -- I applied heat to the tank like I would use a gas welding torch. The plastic flowed and swirled just like welding iron. I took a piece of scrap plastic that looked like the same material as the tank and made a few passes, beading it on. Worked like a charm.
I went to my file folder of Harbor Freight and other mail shippers and looked closely at the various plastic welders.
So, I conclude that the way to do this and make it permanent is to do what Giovanni says and get a plastic welder. You will be able to weld layers into the crack, that is, first pass is an opening melt, second pass with a rod is to close up the "valley" third pass is to make a flowing circle weld over the crack and forming a slight ridge.
Make darned sure that the tank is opened at both ends, and no gasoline is present, not even fumes. If you have to (and this is a good idea anyway) run the hose from your shop vac to the bottom filter hole and blow warm shop vac air through the tank for about 10 minutes (by your watch) to get rid of any possible vapor.
It only takes an essence of gas vapor to turn the tank into a nuke and you into a crispy critter.
Once you finish you can advertise your services here on Rennlist and charge $50 to do the same. Niche market!
Cheers!
I went to my file folder of Harbor Freight and other mail shippers and looked closely at the various plastic welders.
So, I conclude that the way to do this and make it permanent is to do what Giovanni says and get a plastic welder. You will be able to weld layers into the crack, that is, first pass is an opening melt, second pass with a rod is to close up the "valley" third pass is to make a flowing circle weld over the crack and forming a slight ridge.
Make darned sure that the tank is opened at both ends, and no gasoline is present, not even fumes. If you have to (and this is a good idea anyway) run the hose from your shop vac to the bottom filter hole and blow warm shop vac air through the tank for about 10 minutes (by your watch) to get rid of any possible vapor.
It only takes an essence of gas vapor to turn the tank into a nuke and you into a crispy critter.
Once you finish you can advertise your services here on Rennlist and charge $50 to do the same. Niche market!
Cheers!
11-11-2005, 10:30 PM
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Glad you spoke up about the fumes. That goes without saying, but , well...there are people who just don' think about the fumes ("here's yer sign!")
I would be very hesitant to have anything remotely close an open flame or consentrated heat around a gas tank. Before I would ever attempt to use any of these plastic welding tips, I would make "fo dayam sho" there wasn't a hint of gas vapor in there! I think there are gas neutralizers to pour into an empty tank to make it safe. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to clean the inside of the tank while it's out anyway. These neutralizers may be dual purpose.
I would be very hesitant to have anything remotely close an open flame or consentrated heat around a gas tank. Before I would ever attempt to use any of these plastic welding tips, I would make "fo dayam sho" there wasn't a hint of gas vapor in there! I think there are gas neutralizers to pour into an empty tank to make it safe. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to clean the inside of the tank while it's out anyway. These neutralizers may be dual purpose.
11-12-2005, 12:27 AM
#23
I also have to repair my tank and after researching the available products I found that there are no really good choices for a plastic fuel tank. I have chosen to attempt a welding repair. Does anyone know for sure the composition of the plastic to choose a rod type?
11-12-2005, 03:49 AM
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Seems folks think it is a polyethylene. Not sure what plastics mix. I think it would be a good idea to rough the surface that is going to be repaired for the bonding compound to grab a good hold. Just a thought.
11-12-2005, 09:07 AM
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Keith,
The tank is a high density polyethyene (HDPE) and requires a plastic rod for high density. The trade name for the plastic used in the tank is Lupolen 4261 A and was made by BASF. I welded mine and so far it has held. You can get the rod from urethane supply company. They did not have the rod listed in their catalog for high density but i talked to their tech guy and he found the right rod and gave me the part number which if my notes are correct is 5003R10.
Check with the tech to be sure. Then i bought a welding tip from them and converted a large soldering iron by turning around the tip and drilling and tapping the end to screw in the plastic welding tip. It has a hole in the center where you push the rod through as the tip melts the area to be welded.
Go to the web site and you will see instructions and tips on welding plastic. You should also buy the mold release cleaning solution to clean the area before welding.
glenn
The tank is a high density polyethyene (HDPE) and requires a plastic rod for high density. The trade name for the plastic used in the tank is Lupolen 4261 A and was made by BASF. I welded mine and so far it has held. You can get the rod from urethane supply company. They did not have the rod listed in their catalog for high density but i talked to their tech guy and he found the right rod and gave me the part number which if my notes are correct is 5003R10.
Check with the tech to be sure. Then i bought a welding tip from them and converted a large soldering iron by turning around the tip and drilling and tapping the end to screw in the plastic welding tip. It has a hole in the center where you push the rod through as the tip melts the area to be welded.
Go to the web site and you will see instructions and tips on welding plastic. You should also buy the mold release cleaning solution to clean the area before welding.
glenn
11-13-2005, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 928ntslow
Thanks Glenn, but WHAT website?
Here is a pointer to an on line vendor for the welder.
http://thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MAN160.html
Cheers
11-13-2005, 04:53 PM
#29
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One wayI have heard to clear a tank of fumes (even metal ones) is to connect a car exhaust to the tank and let it run (in open air). After a few minutes you can be pretty sure the hot exhaust has displaced any falmmable fumes from the tank. Not everybody has a vacuum that can blow as well.
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k
