Cleaning engine block....what to use?
#16
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From: Bend, Oregon
Acetone -- Not the Best Choice!
Originally Posted by DFWX
Acetone will cut through about anything - it is what is used for fiberglass work.
BUT BEWARE...
It will destroy any paint.
It has a VERY fast evaporation rate and the fumes are extremely harmful.
You should NOT breathe it or get it on your skin - it is very vicious stuff.
I deal quite about with Acetone and even use it in fuel (1 ounce per gallon) - but I would likely not use it to clean up a motor unless you are going to wear a respirator AND have fans running to keep the fumes away from you.
Again, it will evaporate VERY, VERY fast - so you have rapid fume build up.
(It also tends to destroy rubber and numerous metals and plastics...)
Mark
DFWX / GOE
BUT BEWARE...
It will destroy any paint.
It has a VERY fast evaporation rate and the fumes are extremely harmful.
You should NOT breathe it or get it on your skin - it is very vicious stuff.
I deal quite about with Acetone and even use it in fuel (1 ounce per gallon) - but I would likely not use it to clean up a motor unless you are going to wear a respirator AND have fans running to keep the fumes away from you.
Again, it will evaporate VERY, VERY fast - so you have rapid fume build up.
(It also tends to destroy rubber and numerous metals and plastics...)
Mark
DFWX / GOE
You just can't say enough bad things about handling acetone. It's fat soluble, so it travels right through skin into the blood. It does significant nervous system and brain damage. Fumes are quickly absorbed through the lungs or skin. Liquid is quickly absorbed through the skin. It's too dangerous for use as a cleaner like this.
Paint thinner/mineral spirits is about the limit for solvent cleaning, and even then you should wear neoprene (not latex or vinyl) gloves, plus an organic vapors respirator unless there's a great breeze blowing away from you. It turns out that just about all the organic solvents that will do a great job on the crud will also do a great job on you.
Meanwhile, most detergents will do the job eventually, given a little mechanical help with a scraper and/or a stiff parts-cleaning brush.
The spray engine cleaners, like Engine Brite, work fine on oily/greasy stuff. Downside is the cleanup after. You can't legally send the washwater down the storm sewer or the domestic sewer. Not many have a grease/sludge trap or the ability to scrub the petro stuff out of their driveway or garage-floor washdown water.
#18
Originally Posted by tv
Its odd but the main block casting shines up very well and relatively easy but the crank cradle and the heads and cam covers stay dull and oxidized.
The difference can be seen on Daves pix above. Why?? Different alloy??
The difference can be seen on Daves pix above. Why?? Different alloy??
#20
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From: Bend, Oregon
Originally Posted by G Man
I thought mineral spirits was just plain old gasoline.
"Mineral Spirits" is plain old "paint thinner" from HD/Lowes/etc.
Gasoline is a definite no-no for parts cleaning. Besides all the additives that are on the carcingenic ****list, there's that little issue of fire/explosion. Maybe that's one area where acetone has an advantage over gasoline-- Big slow blue flame for acetone, much faster blue to orange flame and a possible BOOM with gasoline.
Just a reminder too-- flame inhalation is ALWAYS fatal. Flame sears all the little air sacs in the lungs, and you suffocate in minutes. Don't try this at home!
#24
I keep forgetting to try this with my Jeep. They say to only use a couple of ounces per 10 gallons of gas.
http://www.pureenergysystems.com/new...00069_Acetone/
http://www.pureenergysystems.com/new...00069_Acetone/
Originally Posted by BrendanC
You are doing the one ounce thing to increase gas mileage on your cars? Is it working? I saw that website.
#25
Originally Posted by Jim_H
I keep forgetting to try this with my Jeep. They say to only use a couple of ounces per 10 gallons of gas.
http://www.pureenergysystems.com/new...00069_Acetone/
http://www.pureenergysystems.com/new...00069_Acetone/
Good website.
Do you remember the 'Roundup' balloon Thread?-.... Uh-huh.
#26
Wanted to post an update. The guys at the machine shop I went to recommended "Super Clean" made by Castrol. Comes in a purple bottle. Works like magic!!!! Some of the grease was so cooked on and hard that I couldn't scrape it off. Couple squirts of Super Clean, let it sit for about a minute, or brush with a toothbrush, and the cooked on oil melts right off! The oil/etc. that Simple Green (full strength) and mineral spirits couldn't get came off without any effort using Super Clean. I was told not to let it stay on the aluminum for too long or it might discolor it, so I worked small areas at a time. If I had this stuff in the first place, I would have sprayed it all over, go over it with a larger brush, then blast it with the pressure washer. Would have saved me plenty of time.
So, a big to Castrol Super Clean.
Rich
So, a big to Castrol Super Clean.
Rich
#27
Super Clean is VERY strong. NEVER use it on anything that is coated. Even diluted, it ruined the clearcoat on my motorcycle wheels. It will discolor/bleach black plastic and turn it milky gray.
#28
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From: Anaheim California
Bill is right Superclean in the garage is a DISASTER waiting to happen sooner or later someone uses it on a car and the paint is damaged ,rubber trim spotted .... really is nasty stuff. Sure the warning label states all that BUT WHO READS labels ?
#29
I used superclean on Tbelt covers. Worked fine! Still are black as were supposed to I used superclean on the readiator hose, the result was not as appealing, turned greenish-greyish color. But I think they still can be used...
Klim
Klim