doug928

Andrew - good luck but I drilled down about an inch then used an ez out to back it out - if all else fails you can use a dremmel and cut off the head of the bolt - and then slide the caliper off - just be careful.

jpitman2

If the bolt is parallel to the axle line, the caliper wont slide off, unless you can get the rotor out of it first....
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k.

John Welch

Sears has a product called bolt-out. Its a hex hed socket with teeth that come in different sizes.

I recently used it to get my dash pod off after stripping the inside of the allen bolts. These things work like a champ.

Good luck,

AO

Well, one broke free with no problem when I used a 3' cheater bar. The other, well, it's still there. I'm gonna try some heat, and an impact wrench and we'll see, but it's looking like I'm gonna have to drill it. Oh well... More status to come after I get the kids off to bed.

AO

Well as I mentioned, one came off without a hitch, but the other... I ended up having to drill it out. It seemed to take forever - I think I got the wrong drill bit. Oh well it's off now. Got the new rotor on, pads intalled, and decided to go ahead and bleed/flush the entire system. Got to the pass front caliper and when I went to loosen the inboard bleeder valve, it twisted right off! Mother.... It's not leaking, but I need to take care of it ASAP.

So what's the best way to get the thing off? Easyout? Also, can I use a "standard" bleeder fitting from my local auto parts store, or do I need to order a Porsche one from the big 3? I'm tired. I'm going to bed. See you in the morning. Sweet dreams and don't let the bed bugs bite!

AO

BTW, Ed. I now have the same picture as you!

borland

Upon assembly, the WSM specifies using a antiseeze lubricant on the caliper bolt threads. Did you do that?

You should also use a torque wrench on those caliper bolts. Otherwise they could fall out.

AO

I love antisieze! I don't leave home without it! It's on all the bolts, and they are all torqued to 63 ftlbs. Just need the new bolt to show and I'll be in good shape.

So any ideas on the frozen/busted bleeder valve?

AO

Looks like I found my answer here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...hlight=bleeder

sublimate

Here's the easiest solution (but not the cheapest):
http://designcenter.ucsd.edu/resourc...tml&linkid=461

But seriously, I think after soaking it in PBBlaster (maybe for a day or 2) I'd try an easy-out since the hole is conveniently already drilled. Just don't break off the easy-out in the bleader, BTDT (pretty easy to do since they're so brittle and a PITA to fix since they're so hard).

If that doesn't work I'd be tempted to leave as is. The are plenty of calipers that don't have two bleed nipples like our do. Sure when you bleed the brakes you'll miss that little bit of fluid near the busted nipple, but I don't think it'll have any effect. Maybe just change the fluid a little more often (and make sure you push that pad all the way back in so there's as little fluid on that side as possible - you'll have to put a shim between the pad and disc while bleeding).

You can try and drill it out, but that's pretty risky. The bottom of the bleed nipple seal against a surface and if you drill into that you may be screwed. But if you don't drill far enough you won't get it all out and you'll be screwed again.

69gaugeman

You must be very carefull when drilling out that screw as has been mentioned. Best to do it on a milling machine that can control the feed rate and depth. An alternative is to remove one of the other screws and get a small piece of pipe to go over the drill bit. Cut the pipe so that when bottomed out on the drill chuck the amount protruding from the end of the pipe will not touch the bottom of the hole. Spent a good part of my youth removing easy outs from screws that other people broke off. Trust me you do not want to do that.

AO

Victor-
I just read some more horror stories about this. I'm thinking I might try cutting a slot in the bleedr screw with a dremel and then try an impact screw driver. If it doesn't budge, then just leave it until winter when i can take it off, put it on the bench and really work on it.

Thoughts on this approach? or should I just wait until I can take it off the caar?

sublimate

Since it's not leaking I'd just leave it as is till you can get it off and work on it. Just bleed with the other nipple for now.

AO

Already bled. I think I'll leave it until winter, when I can get take it off and work on it at a bench. Thanks for talking me down...

hinchcliffe

Try sharpening the end of a allen wrench and tapping in there with a hammer, make some grooves in it when you sharpen it. Smiliar to an EZ out. I have a couple extra bleeder screws if you want one, just PM me with your address. Then add broken bolt and bleeder to the shine.