Dropping the TT
#1
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Dropping the TT
In the middle of major clutch job,
looks like the center shaft of the TT is 5mm to far towards the front.
Seems to not be possible to push it back with the TT in the car?
If I need to drop the TT do I need to remove the driveshafts from the gearbox before moving it back?(manual)
Cheers/Peter
looks like the center shaft of the TT is 5mm to far towards the front.
Seems to not be possible to push it back with the TT in the car?
If I need to drop the TT do I need to remove the driveshafts from the gearbox before moving it back?(manual)
Cheers/Peter
#2
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Try loosening rear clamp bolt (do mans have these?) accessible through rubber plug at rear of TT (8mm allen), see if this will allow some movement of shaft. Or lube the front splines to allow front clamp and stub shaft to slide back more?
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k
#3
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I have loosened all the clamps on the central shaft trough the TT.
Yes there is a rear one on manuals as well, the cut in the shaft is 5mm out of alignment also there.
So some lame PO or poor mechanics has drilled an extra cut both front and rear instead of adressing the real problem.
If I mount the short clutch shaft in these 'new' holes it almost lines up, but only almost and that doesn't feel good enough to me
Main problem is that the centralshaft has moved sometime for what ever reason 5mm forward in the TT.
The shaft seems to not move with some light taps on the end despite all 3 clamp bolts has been removed.
So question remains, how much force is normally needed to move the central shaft in the TT and can it be done in the car?
/Peter
Yes there is a rear one on manuals as well, the cut in the shaft is 5mm out of alignment also there.
So some lame PO or poor mechanics has drilled an extra cut both front and rear instead of adressing the real problem.
If I mount the short clutch shaft in these 'new' holes it almost lines up, but only almost and that doesn't feel good enough to me
Main problem is that the centralshaft has moved sometime for what ever reason 5mm forward in the TT.
The shaft seems to not move with some light taps on the end despite all 3 clamp bolts has been removed.
So question remains, how much force is normally needed to move the central shaft in the TT and can it be done in the car?
/Peter
#4
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We have seen this movement on few local manual cars before. Seems rear clamp (yes, there is same kind of clamp as in 4sp automatics) loosens and this allows center shaft to move forward. 5mm is all it can move before clutch shaft stops movement on pilot bearing. Anything more and manual cars start to suffer TBF. On my car there were some symptoms of starting problems in thrust bearings rear surface.
I wouldn't just move TT shaft back, it can be done though and required force should not be too great. We have currently two shafts under work where rear clamp had opened and this caused gearbox input shaft to eat away bores of TT center shaft. Even if this has not yet happened in your case it's worth a thorough check. To get TT down you need to disconnect driveshafts at least partly as TT goes some 45mm inside gearbox input shaft.
I wouldn't just move TT shaft back, it can be done though and required force should not be too great. We have currently two shafts under work where rear clamp had opened and this caused gearbox input shaft to eat away bores of TT center shaft. Even if this has not yet happened in your case it's worth a thorough check. To get TT down you need to disconnect driveshafts at least partly as TT goes some 45mm inside gearbox input shaft.
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Thanks Erkka,
dropping the TT is on my winter fixing list, but I was hoping for a couple of more weeks on the road before storage.
So I'm looking for a short term solution before taking it all apart anyway.
Plan is to change the TT bearings and clean everything + check that bearings and damper are in the right place.
Any measurements for each bearing location inside the TT?
/Peter
dropping the TT is on my winter fixing list, but I was hoping for a couple of more weeks on the road before storage.
So I'm looking for a short term solution before taking it all apart anyway.
Plan is to change the TT bearings and clean everything + check that bearings and damper are in the right place.
Any measurements for each bearing location inside the TT?
/Peter
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Originally Posted by Peter F
Any measurements for each bearing location inside the TT?
#7
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Ok,
I guess you mean that there should be wear marks on the shaft?
Only concern is if they have moved and made more than one mark?
See what you can find.
Thanks/Peter
I guess you mean that there should be wear marks on the shaft?
Only concern is if they have moved and made more than one mark?
See what you can find.
Thanks/Peter
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#8
Peter I'll watch in awe to see what emerges from your job. I'm about to replace the clutch arm to see if that solves my "release bearing eating" syndrom. Who knows maybe I've got the same issue as you? (strange though, since during the last TT job on my car all seemed ok...)
#9
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Hi Kolbjörn,
since you have already renovated your TT that should not be a problem for you.
My old pressure plate had significant wear on the T/O bearing side, will post pics later on that.
That must be the reason for my noicy clutch, and as can be seen on enclosed pics the old central shaft shows clear signs from a grenaded pilot bearing in the past.
Old and new central shaft side by side, also note the wear on the splines on the old shaft...
This is how I want the shaft to be positioned
And this is how it will be positioned using the original bolt cuts at the connection to the TT shaft...
PO had replaced the clutch plate and T/O bearing but still had noice.
Now one Year later I have replaced the Pilot bearing,T/O bearing and guide tube but still chattering noice
When I did this the pressure plate looked fine to me, the wear looked normal.
It wasnt until i saw it next to the new one that I realised how bad it was.
This time i am determined to get it right once and for all.
Tomorrow I will get the flywheel back from resurfacing and then on to have it balanced together with new pressure plate.
/Peter
since you have already renovated your TT that should not be a problem for you.
My old pressure plate had significant wear on the T/O bearing side, will post pics later on that.
That must be the reason for my noicy clutch, and as can be seen on enclosed pics the old central shaft shows clear signs from a grenaded pilot bearing in the past.
Old and new central shaft side by side, also note the wear on the splines on the old shaft...
This is how I want the shaft to be positioned
And this is how it will be positioned using the original bolt cuts at the connection to the TT shaft...
PO had replaced the clutch plate and T/O bearing but still had noice.
Now one Year later I have replaced the Pilot bearing,T/O bearing and guide tube but still chattering noice
When I did this the pressure plate looked fine to me, the wear looked normal.
It wasnt until i saw it next to the new one that I realised how bad it was.
This time i am determined to get it right once and for all.
Tomorrow I will get the flywheel back from resurfacing and then on to have it balanced together with new pressure plate.
/Peter