I searched the archives and found the follwing brief instructions:

"Hi Mark, Easiest: drill & tap the nut on the end of your fuel rail for 1/8" NPT, so you can use a standard $30 EFI 1.5" fuel pressure gauge. Then, the regulator is closest to the passenger under the air box: the other two items are dampers. Make note of your fuel pressure with the car running (should be about 30psi) before installing your new one. With engine running, pull fuel pump fuse until engine dies (very quick). Then remove/replace regulator. You'll probably need/want a fresh piece of fuel hose: make sure it's EFI hose, 5/16" I think, and a pair of fresh clamps.

Have fun!"

Does this cover it? What about Air Fuel checking? Dyno tuning? Any other tips?

Thanks!

 

I will try to help with my experience. I have a euro lh which comes with 2 stock regulators and 1 damper. I bought the 928 specialist RRFPR's and installed them as direct replacements for the stock. Then i got a very reliable and accurate guage.

I originally ran with a slightly increased pressure as my euro like others was running lean. Some time later i got on a dyno and did a thorough job of dialing in my A/F ratio. The euro lh is very unique (in many ways) as the MAF can be adjusted along with the new RRFPR's. HOWEVER it is also an OPEN LOOP system w/o an O2 sensor.

Therefore the changes i made will stick and not be screwed with by the O2 sensor in concert with the computer. Because of this your benefit from the RRFPR will be limited. I dialed mine in to near perfection and it runs great. Good Luck!!

My engine with guage;
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/228728-polishing-components.html

 

James,

What brand RRFPR are you trying to dial in?

 

How do you keep metal from the drilling and tapping from going into the fuel rail? Are their any quality alternatives for less $ than the 928 Specialists units?

Where is the MAF adjustable on an LH Euro? I'd like to put off installing RRFPRs if I can, but I know I'm going to need them.

 

You remove the nut from the end of the fuel rail to drill and tap it and then replace it.

 

Matt,

The nut comes off to drill & tap.

Vortech and Corky Bell make them, among others. Don't let price dictate which you choose.

 

Ahh... I was thinking of the driver's side which has no nut.

 

While we are on this topic, does anyone have any suggestions for correcting this air/fuel curve? I have installed a high output Bosch 044 pump since this dyno, but the fuel pressure still tops out at ~80psi by 5psi of boost, despite the additional 5psi boost by redline. Vortech SuperFMU is set up for 10:1 boost ratio and has the stronger spring installed (was required to acheive 100psi static). All the adjustment screws are closed.

 

Hi FlyingDog,
You can only adjust the idle CO with the adjuster on the MAF for a Euro S2. This adjustment has minimal effect on mixture once off idle.

Hi Old & New - what MY is your s/c car ? What size injectors are you running ?

 

looks like john beat me to it, but what size injectors?
i beleieve your car is an s4 or gt, but my '89 s4 with 8:1 super fmu and 9 pounds of boost doesn't get anywhere near that fuel curve even thought the fuel pressure doesn't go above about 85 psi. i have 30 pound injectors.
sounds like something is not right in the fuel delivery.

 

Ooops, since they took away nonmember signature "privilages"; I guess I need to remember to specify. It is a standard Tim Murphy 8psi setup with intercooler on an 89 S4 but for a 10psi pulley on the S/C. I didn't dyno it at 8psi, but it showed the same fuel pressure behaviour and dirty exhaust pipe with that arrangement. I did dyno it before supercharging, and it had a perfect stock mixture. The injectors are red 30# Bosch/Motorsport units.

Tom, It looks like we have much the same setup. I planned upon installing the 8:1 components and lightweight FMU spring today. What fuel pump are you running, and can you elaborate upon, "doesn't get anywhere near that fuel curve"?

 

Speaking of Tim Murphy, if you followed my link and saw the wika guage(the best) on the end of my passenger fuel rail it was a specially designed and built unit made for Tim and his SC. I bought it off him. No drilling or tapping necessary. His supply was custom built for him and i do not know if he has anymore or wants to sell them anymore. That fuel fitting is a PITA. I wouldn't be comfortable with any other setup as there have been too many fire related threads lately.

As to john speake, I found that the MAF adjustment played an important part of the voodoo required to get the A/F perfect. And since i took a car that had 200% Nox down to 1% while keeping CO at 0% and lessening the HC's my results speak for themselves.

You have to use both to dial it in with the maf working on low rpm and the RRFPR's working on more open throttle but i found some overlap.

 

tv,

What makes the $10 WIKA gauge special? http://www.wikagauges.com/wika212.htm

Maybe you are talking about the fitting used to connect it to the rail? Such a fitting is easily manufactured by running a metric tap into one side of an NPT coupling, and using a flat gasket to seal the faces.

 

QUOTE:
As to john speake, I found that the MAF adjustment played an important part of the voodoo required to get the A/F perfect. And since i took a car that had 200% Nox down to 1% while keeping CO at 0% and lessening the HC's my results speak for themselves"

hi TV,
You're still talking about relatively small changes here...the question by Old & New was whether it is possible to make substantial diffrerences to fuelling over the whole range just by using the idle mixture screw :-)
i.e "correcting this air/fuel curve"

Regards

 

I will be getting the one sold by 928 specialists. Just trying to get all of my ducks in a row before installing.
Thanks.