BC

I am in agreement that the walls on the 944 variant blocks are thicker. I remember clearly when I took my first Porsche apart -a 1987 924S.

Vilhuer

Besides 951 block having generally thicker cylinder wall they also have shallower water jacket. Bases on limited amount of measurements I have made 928 blocks have about 11 cm deep water area around cylinders at it's lowest point when 951 has only 8 cm. More than 1" difference must have significant effect in towers strenght.

After measuring half dozen 928 blocks I'd say their towers do thicken going down. It might not be as obvious as in 951 blocks but there is clear several mm's thickening at 11 cm distance.

Herr-Kuhn

Carl, all I said is it was a bit pricy. I'm not angry, but I do not like seeing people getting misled on all of this forced induction technology for the 928. There is a lot of that going on as of late. Sorry if I offended you. You have made many cheap shots at the 928 turbo stuff that is out there.

Carl Fausett

Name one. QUOTE me if you can. I do not beleive I have made "cheap shots" at turbos. That does not sound like me. Might you have me confused with someone else?

Please QUOTE me so I can see what you feel is a "cheap shot".

heinrich

Carl how about TBF engines. I have a block in that state.

Carl Fausett

"TBF" ? I am having a brain cramp - remind me - what is that?

heinrich

Thrusten sie Bearingen Failurem

heinrich

Thrust Bearing Failure ... can you repair?

slate blue

Hey Carl I have had an idea that might actually be a good one. If you negoitated with US Chrome to do the preparation work, this would allow you to control the quality to some degree. Because you are an intermediary, people expect you to put things right ,that your supplier may screw up. This way you may get a better profit margin to boot.

Also on the engine mounts that you sell, they are no longer in your store, are they still available? If they are, please pm me to their link. I need another set.

Cheers Greg

Carl Fausett

Greg - here is the link to our metric replacement motor mounts for the 928:
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/motormounts.php

I'm thinking of your idea to intermediary the rebuilds - you mean WE would remove all the steel and prepare the engine for etching, boring and plating? Then the price would go even higher - right now the customer can save $$ by removing their own pins and head studs.

Is this what you meant?

slate blue

No this isn't what I meant, I agree the customers should remove their steel bits, but you could protect all those crictical bits that others have said that US Chrome have neglected to do. I.E dowel pins. There has never been a more true saying than "if you want something done right better do it yourself" I think if this was the case people would feel easier about this process. Also you will not then hopefully have to deal with angry customers that feel they may have been let down, not by you but your supplier.

As to the engine mounts link, I can't use that because I need to add the extra postage to Australia. I know how much to add from last time but the checkout pages doesn't allow it. So I'm stuck.

Cheers Greg

puyi

question from a newbie :

As I know, 928 blocks were treated by alusil method. I had always thought that the 928 block were treated with nikasil method but it seems not.
The reparing treatment which is provide by Nicom or other is Nikasil. I have heard that OEM piston rings are not compatible with nikasil treated blocks. Is that true? What is the material used for these rings? If it is incompatible, what are the replacement solutions?

thank you for the lights

regards

STL

Carl Fausett

Greg - now I see what you mean.... and yes, that is a good idea. I should be able to get some of the special laquer they use to protect the right places... I will find out if it is applied after the dipping or before.

Greg - we have your credit card info and address info on file. I can just send you another set and use that info if that is what you want.

Puyi - I think you have some bad info there - the NiCom (Nikasil) plating is compatable with most common ring materials. To answer your question, the #1 and #2 compression rings are usually cast iron, and the sweeper or oil control ring #3 is often chrome-steel. It does vary - there are others in use, but this is the common stock setup.

Sort of hard to imagine, in this day and age, anything "cast-iron" going into our fancy hi-tech motors - but there it is. For this application, cast iron works very well (200,000 miles between rebuilds...)

Herr-Kuhn

Carl...Please see post "Supercharge or Turbocharge"...dated 4.18.2005. There you will, in fact, find the bent pretzel valve comment and the like. It's okay, Herr Kuhn forgives you. Perhaps we should discuss things over Tea and Crumpets sometime soon?

slate blue

Hi Carl, I'm glad you liked my idea, nothing like doing it yourself, I have also sent you a PM instructing you about the mounts.

Cheers Greg