I have a persistent drip (24 hours now) that seems to be coming from behind the front covers. Hard to see exactly where it is coming from, but it is dripping off the oil pan. I removed both radiator hoses after draining a bit to get a better look. The top half seems dry and it looks like it is coming from about half-way down. Does this sound like a leaky water pump?

Looking at the PO's service records again, the TB job was done ~15k miles ago, but the water pump was not replaced then. The only water pump record I can find was 70k miles ago. I wonder why they didn't replace it with 55k miles on it when they were doing the TB?

I guess I'll remove the front cover today and take a closer look. Does anyone have a writeup or info on removing the front covers, like where all the bolts are, what sizes, and what ancillary parts I'll have to remove to be able to remove the covers?

Thanks.

 

Sounds exactly like a water pump leak. Sorry.

Too bad your PO didn't change the pump at timing belt time; that's rather silly, it seems.

No tips for you on pulling the covers, but I know it's no small job getting to that thing. I went to a tech for my TB/WP service.

Good luck.

 

To see what is entailed, read John Pirtles excellent procedure ** . However, before tearing down the front of the engine, check out the ~1" diameter coolant fill hose that connects just below the upper rad hose on the T-stat bridge, the smaller 1/2" hose, and the gaskets & o-ring on the bridge itself.( the fill line frequently swells and fails internally, creating a slow drip)
If you can, borrow or make up a coolant system pressure tester - and pressurize the system to 10-12 psi to verify any leak source.

** click to 'timing belt', bottom of the left panel

 

I wish that was it, even after removing that hose from the t-stat bridge area, it still dripped steadily for hours.

 

Pirtles writeup will set you straight... unfortunately it does sound like the pump is leaking....
if you have to do it, double check whether the tensioner was rebuilt during the tb.. if not do it while you're in there..

 

I had the same experience a couple of weeks ago. The leak looked like it was from the water pump but after opening everything up, we discovered that it was a radiator leak that had squirted coolant back toward the water pump. Replaced the radiator($$$$$) and now everthing is OK.

 

Brett:

My water pump did exactly that when it was leaking. It was leaking from the pump shaft...the pump itself was still well-sealed to the block.

How much coolant are you losing each day?

 

I was losing on coolant before Friday. I saw no wet patches in the garage on parking lot. Then Friday, on the way home, the dash said "check your coolant, fool". I had a leak in the lower hose that goes up to the thermostat housing a few weeks ago and just shortened the hose while a new one arrived, so I assumed it was from there, but alas, it was not. I pulled that hose and all other radiator hoses and reservoir hose and emptied them and the leak remained for the rest of the day, dripping off of the oil pan into a catch pan. Looking at the records, the PO had euro motorworks replace the timing belt, idler, roller and rebuild the tensioner 15k miles/3 years ago, but hey did not replace the water pump, which had 50k miles on it at the time. That was silly and confuses me a bit since, looking at this records, he spared no expense on this car as far as its upkeep and maintenance.

I'll pull the front covers today and take a look. I'll go ahead a get a new t-belt. Do you supposed the tensioner, tension pulley, and tension roller will be ok to reuse as is, since it's only 15k miles, or does the 3 year span factor in?

I can't afford to spring for the porsche tensioner, I have a krikit from my 944 days. Has anyone had luck with one of those on a 928, or should I get the Kempf tool?

 

Also, will the flywheel lock that I have for my 944 work with a 928?

 

Brett check your PM.......................radio shipped yet?

jason
93GTS

 

Ok, I got the front cover off after removing EVERYTHING up front. I pulled the thermostat and ran some water through the housing. I then started seeing clear water come from behind the pulley on the water pump and run down the block, so I guess that confirms a shot water pump.

Are there any relative cheap and relatively easy while-you-are-in-theres, while I'm in there?

I have absolutely no oil drips ever under the car and I haven't had to add oil in the 6 months I've had the car, so maybe a front-end reseal isn't necessary, but if it's easy and cheap, I'll definitely do it while I'm there.

Off to order parts and find instructions. Wish me luck!

 

Do the large O-ring behind the oil pump and clean up around there... Also replace any TB rollers that do not spin as smooth as glass.

 

Don't forget the pinch roller at the 7 o'clock position on the crank. "Anythng that touches the belt."

 

They replaced all that stuff and rebuilt the tensioner when they replaced the timing belt 15k miles ago.

Is it possible to pull the water pump without removing the timing belt, only loosening it? That would greatly simplify the job this weekend and the 15k mile timing belt looks great. I'm just considering this but if everyone thinks it is worth it to just put in a new belt while I'm there, then that's the way I'll go.

Anyone interested in buying my new flywheel lock when I'm done with this job? I also have one left over from my 924 and 944 days. I just paid $80! for the 928 flywheel lock at 928 specialist, $60 bucks will take it off my hand when I'm done. I paid $32 for the 944 flywheel lock at arnnworx, $20 bucks can take that one. Add about $5 to ship it to you.

 

The belt has to come off(essentially) to get the water pump out. Since it's already at 1/3 of the recommended change interval, and it's cheap, might as well toss a new one at it. Also, it doesn't matter if the rollers were replaced 2 miles ago. Inspect them anyway, and replace any that do not turn smooth as glass. Never discount the possibility that they were installed with undue force, which could dent the races or flatten the ***** and cause premature wear.