85S Front Strut questions
09-05-2005, 07:44 PM
#1
Pro
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85S Front Strut questions
It looks to me like the 85S front ride height cannot be adjusted with the ease of the rear. The snout of my 85 is way too low to suit. I have it up in the air and cannot figure out what I realistically need to do without replacing the whole strut assembly with an adjustable one. Maybe some of you with a 85 have some answers/options? Is it possible the springs gave way? I can't believe good german steel would do that. 
09-05-2005, 08:34 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
The '85S came with adjustable fronts .... that function identically to the rears; If Boges are used, the adjuster nut below the spring perch conceals a much shorter threaded sleeve than that used in the rear. Also, if the threaded sleeve is seized to the nut, it will spin as a unit with no height change. If Bilsteins are used, the shock body is threaded both front and rear ... same result if seized.
Do you have a pic of this area of your front coil-over?
Do you have a pic of this area of your front coil-over?
09-05-2005, 10:24 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Oldtee:
The aluminum piece (just below the spring) that looks kind of like a round castelated nut that the spring perch sits on is the adjuster. You need a spanner (curved wrench with a hook on the end to fit in the slots on the adjuster) to screw it up or down.
Probably the best place to pick up a spanner is a motorcycle shop. Lots of motorcycles and ATV's use a similar arrangement. I got one made by Motion Pro, part number 150470, for about $16.00. It had a large (proper size) spanner on one end and a smaller spanner on the other end. I ended up cutting the smaller spanner off so that I could slip a piece of pipe over the shaft for more leverage - which you will need if you attempt to adjust the height with the suspension under load.
James
The aluminum piece (just below the spring) that looks kind of like a round castelated nut that the spring perch sits on is the adjuster. You need a spanner (curved wrench with a hook on the end to fit in the slots on the adjuster) to screw it up or down.
Probably the best place to pick up a spanner is a motorcycle shop. Lots of motorcycles and ATV's use a similar arrangement. I got one made by Motion Pro, part number 150470, for about $16.00. It had a large (proper size) spanner on one end and a smaller spanner on the other end. I ended up cutting the smaller spanner off so that I could slip a piece of pipe over the shaft for more leverage - which you will need if you attempt to adjust the height with the suspension under load.
James
09-05-2005, 10:31 PM
#6
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Oldtee,
I used a "strap" wrench. They are generally made of some form of strong plastic handle with a fibre strap which wraps around the item to be turned and locks by friction into its handle. Worked great forme but I had already replaced the shocks and cleaned up the threads. It was more convenient than shopping fora spanner.
I used a "strap" wrench. They are generally made of some form of strong plastic handle with a fibre strap which wraps around the item to be turned and locks by friction into its handle. Worked great forme but I had already replaced the shocks and cleaned up the threads. It was more convenient than shopping fora spanner.
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09-06-2005, 07:32 AM
#8
Rennlist Member
The thread pitch is 1.5mm/turn IIRC - but the effective lift is slightly more due to the suspension geometry .... so you will need a number of turns.
Tip #1 - place a tape strip or felt tip marker reference at the lower edge of the adjuster: then, as it turns, real elevation can be verified. ( remember that 'seized' note).
Tip #2 Run a similar vertical reference over the spring perch, nut, and shock body - makes counting turns easier
Tip #3 - get both front heights equal as a first step - then move upwards in parallel steps: there is a front/rear diagonal effect of suspension loading which is much more pronounced if the fronts are very different - which can have you chasing all over the place ....
.... yes, right hand threads: clockwise = up
Tip #1 - place a tape strip or felt tip marker reference at the lower edge of the adjuster: then, as it turns, real elevation can be verified. ( remember that 'seized' note).
Tip #2 Run a similar vertical reference over the spring perch, nut, and shock body - makes counting turns easier
Tip #3 - get both front heights equal as a first step - then move upwards in parallel steps: there is a front/rear diagonal effect of suspension loading which is much more pronounced if the fronts are very different - which can have you chasing all over the place ....
.... yes, right hand threads: clockwise = up
09-06-2005, 07:43 AM
#9
Rennlist Member
Once you get close, its gets very tedious settling suspension if you keep jacking the front. I found that with wheels on full lock you can adjust without jacking, if strong enough to turn the nut. Full right lock to lower (behind left wheel, in front of right wheel , pulling on spanner), vice versa to raise. Then you dont have to do a full settling run, just a few laps around the block and recheck height.
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k, adjustable Bilsteins all around.
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k, adjustable Bilsteins all around.
