Bill Ball

Eh, I think Eastlake is in dr. bob and Keith's service region anyway.

Mongo

really? If it is than we shark wrenchers must all get together for beer and shark pictures! Oh and one of those mini-drives through the backroads!

Wait, Keith and Bob live in Chula Vista???

hupp

Matt,

How loud was the chirping? I had the same/similar issue after replacing my WP and TB. It drove me nuts and I had the covers off multiple times trying to find the source. Ultimately, I discovered that this chirp was occuring as the numbering/labeling on the flat side of the belt passed the WP pulley. The chirp went away after some miles were put on the belt.

To add to the most tedious jobs discussion:

I've replaced my TB/WP, engine mounts and clutch, but the most tedious job by far was replacing the clutch master cylinder -- without a helper!

Bill Ball

In the same half of the state.

FlyingDog

It was loud enough to be heard inside the car over the loud whirring throwout bearing and the very loud exhaust in a small brick building.

As the the belt walked forward and backward the chirp would occur 3 out of 4 times the belt reached the front of its travel.

Rixter, thanks for the offer! I think I can handle it once I get the bolt. I hope UPS was being efficient last night.

Stig, as long as your PO hasn't screwed everything up like mine had, the TB/WP should be fairly easy. A 32V looks a little harder, but not much.

FlyingDog

Bolt didn't show up, so it's not running.

I replaced the chassis to engine clutch hose, remounted it to the oil pan (dumb PO), and rerouted the hardline around the starter (dumb PO). Then I used the power bleeder to run Super blue through both the brakes and clutch. I bled twice the tested. The clutch went straight to the floor. Rebled the clutch and pumped the slave pushrod in a few times and got a little pressure at the last inch or two of the clutch. I rebled a few more times and forgot to remove the bleeder one time before testing the clutch. I heard a loud POP under the car, so I assumed I had screwed up and shot the picton out of the clutch. After checking everything under the car and finding nothing wrong, I tried the clutch again... It worked fine! I have no idea what the pop was. I bled it some more in case I had broken something loose inside a line, but everything that came out was clear blue.

After that I figured life was great and nothing would get broken today. On to the differential cover. I pulled the magnetic drain plugs and found mounds of magnetic sludge on them. Then I unbolted my leaking differential cover. The inside of the case and the LSD were beautifully shiny with a couple little globs of black sludge near the magnets for the speedo. I hosed down the cover with brake cleaner and started scraping off the gasket. On the circular part where the speedo sensor fits I noticed some buildup. When I rubbed it with the scraper, it popped right off leaving A HOLE IN MY DIFF COVER! It looks like the area was cast extremely thin where the magnets pass and some metallic transformation took place (darker discolored aluminum) weakening the spot even more. It had already cracked, it was just waiting for me to push the first chunk out before crumbling.

Since I'm not going to pay $276 for a new one, the options I have come up with are JB Weld and TIG welding. The only concerns I have with having it TIG welding are the weld interfering with the speedo and the metal being very thin and brittle around the hole. Anybody have any thoughts? Anybody ever have this happen before???

dr bob

Matt--

Talk to the guys at 928 Int'l, or to DR if he's your main supplier. I suspect that a used cover isn't too bad, especially considering your JBWeld suggestion. A real cover will keep the oil in there. A HA repaired cover will leave a dribbling trail of oil from wherever you put the gear oil in it, all the way to the place where the gearts come apart in a smokey haze. If ya know what I mean.