the flyin' scotsman

Thought I'd share my recent experience of removal of the air pump to my car............YMMV

The air pump is mounted to the engine via one pivot bolt and one adjuster bolt (belt tensioner). The problem is the location and lack of space (surprise right?). The pump is much larger than one might expect so even when you've figured out what bolts require removal you soon realise the A/C compressor has to come out. The A/C unit is attached at 3 points one of mine was at max torque and of course it's the one at the worse location.........@ the front.

Long story short, I drop the compressor and with the air pump bolts removed and hoses disconnected the unit should fall on the garage floor.........NOT!
The hose to the air pump filter was so tangled between the A/C hoses, rad hoses etc the pump just sat there. Back under the hood I cut the hose to the 'valve' to gain some relieve then back under the car. I pulled the 'hose to filter' as far as possible. Then it was grab the air pump with both hands and wrestle the thing to the ground. Canadian beer then flowed in great quantity with the dead pump lying on the garage floor. Now remove the valve that diverts some of the air pump air from the cats to the air filter and guess what; there's a vacuum line there. Plug the vac line, plug the cat line then look at the pile you've removed. I'm an electrical guy but I'm sure some mechanical dude could figure the HP gain with the subsequent weight loss.

If you attempt this operation I would suggest you spend some time the previous day to lube all the bolts, if your not putting the air pump back cut the hoses as close to the pump as possible, be prepared for many 'while your at it projects'...............all belt replacement............timing belt tension; the tensioner is now wide open.

Another while your at it is the A/C pump and hoses.........after going to this amount of work and if your A/C system is not 100% then..........

Our 'hot' weather is over so I bolted the partially working A/C unit back in place but did replace the worn/cracked belt. I've all long winter to consider the 'other stuff'.

Reason for doing this: X over Exhaust system on order from 928 GT

Hope this helps.

FlyingDog

I did it from the top without dropping the A/C... PITA!

Shane

I cut the belt and left it hanging there.

Maybe later, like when I have the engine out for something.

Flint

Huh, I did mine during my (still ongoing) timing belt/water pump R&R. I don't recall it being that difficult, and I didn't have to touch the AC (YMMV confirmed), but the elation of getting that bastard piece of $hit out may have made it seem easier.

the flyin' scotsman

Devin/Matt...........I wasn't doing anything else for a change so all topside hoses and wirings were not removed hence the disection from below.........and above...........and below again.

Shane........I performed the belt slice initially then got brave

FlyingDog

Your 32V is probably a bit harder than our 16V cars...

SharkSkin

Must be.... Mine was easy. The worst part of the whole job was pulling the dang air filter housing off the inner fenderwell...

Garth S

Guess I gave you a bum steer ( Alberta cow country terminology) when saying that you only had to loosen the AC compressor .... ....

SteveG

Re strictly the weight component:
Eons ago IIRC, I saw a rule of thumb est. here of 7 lbs = 1 hp. Carrying that a little further, I seem to remember figures on gutted cars losing some 600-700 lbs. (3450 down to 2750?) One guy even removed all the extra copper wiring that was now dead weight. So that's 100 horses.

the flyin' scotsman

Dave.........nice job of describing your work. I notice from your pictures though the location of the air pump filter is not where it is on 32v engines. My model has the air filter housing in the middle of the rad thus the hose to it is that much longer.

Garth.............at least now the 'bum steers' are crossing the border making my neighbour ranchers very happy although they'll never be competing with the $64/ barrel oil guys.

rixter

Dave,
GREAT writeup!! I need to remove the airpump on an 82 and that will really help

SharkSkin

Thanks guys... Yes, I know where the air pump intake is on 32V cars. I just don't have a picture in my head of where the rest of the hoses go.... Rixter, you should have an easier time of it than I did. Big fingers are no help at all with that filter housing...

m21sniper

"Re strictly the weight component:
Eons ago IIRC, I saw a rule of thumb est. here of 7 lbs = 1 hp."

I've always heard 10lbs per hp, but 7 might be right.

Anyone know for sure?

m21sniper

Anyone have a pic of the air pump filter housing on 16v cars?

I don't seem to recall messing with anything on the fender when i pulled mine. If there's a few more lbs to be saved, i GOTS ta know.

the flyin' scotsman

m21...............click on "http://members.rennlist.com/sharkskin/Pages_SA_R06-SharkBitesBack-AirPump.htm" in Sharkskins post...........lots of good pics of the a/p removal on a 16 valver.
On a 32v engine the a/p is in the same location but the a/p air filter is up front and center of the rad and the diverter valve is bolted to the passenger cylinder head with 3 hoses; 1 to the engine air filter, one to the cats and the third from the air pump output. The input hose to the air pump is the one which is connected to the filter and is snaked around the a/c & rad hoses.