Went to open hatch today and the motor keeps running now. I found Wally's tip on Greg Nichols site but it didn't fix my problem. It has been working since I got the car (actually was disconnected by PO). When I plugged it in 4 years ago, it worked fine. Took the motor out, found the yellow wire barely in plug, found that PO had screwed up yellow connector and soldered it together. Fixed that but didn't fix running on. Checked gap that is supposed to stop when reached inside gears. Cleaned it, still no good. Thought it moved too free, put thick grease on it to slow it up so it wouldn't run on, no good. If I put pressure on arm, it will stop. Could it be hatch release itself that doesn't have enough tension to stop motor from running on?

 

Mine was a problem with the pull switch next to the drivers door. If your car has that switch, or one on the pass side that is triggering the motor. Pull the cover next to the seat and disconnect the wire from the back of the pull switch. Then see if the motor stops.

Doc

 

Does it still run when you disconnect the electricity to it? If so, RedUFO and I will drop around for a quick seance and the obligatory **** probe.

Seriously, run-on motors usually can be fixed by finding where the electrical supply is "supposed" to be momentarily disconnected. Pull switches are usually single pole single throw and can look fine on the exterior. I suspect the internal contacts have merged and are now permanently connected "on". Pull the wires from the switch and if the motor stops, put the wires together to restart the motor. If that works trash the switch and get a new one from 928Intl.

The putting pressure to stop the motor means that you are either making the connection or overloading the motor so it stalls.

I am thinking there is a microswitch at the motor which is contacted by the arm which then disconnects the electrical supply bringing the motor to a halt. The microswitch may be bad and replacement is the only answer to that. They are sealed units. Cheap, but not repairable.

HTH.

Dave

 

I had same problem with my 84. Tried thick grease, still ran on. I finally enlarged the gap on the disc which sweeps past contact arm. IIRC the original gap was about 3mm, I doubled its size and it worked. You can test it by hooking up the wires but not attaching the motor to the lock. It should go one revolution then stop.
Good luck
Dave

 

Thanks for all the ideas. Dave I think has the right answer, open up the gap. All the wiring is correct and working. The yellow wire triggers the start of the opening, works from both hatch release switches. When I put the tension on the arm, it stopped because it did not run past the gap. I will get around to doing this later. Thanks again.
Glen

 

Have you checked the 1 amp fuse, #26. This is actually for the "stopping" circuit of the hatch motor.....it is often overlooked. If it's bad the hatch motor will keep cycling.

 

Checked it, amazing PO had put in a 15 amp fuse there and it was fine. Put a 1 amp in. I cut the gap in the disc and now the motor stops afte one revolution. Problem solved, but now have to find the plastic ball cup piece in the receiver latch arm, snapped it when putting back over ball on actuator arm, arghhh!