Cleaning Aluminum
08-02-2005, 12:00 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by fst951
Randy, all that work and still a busted up windshield washer reservoir cover? How disgraceful....maybe Tim Murphy will send you one so that the two of you can kiss and make up! Get a new filler neck and cap on that sucker!
Good luck.
Garrity
Good luck.
Garrity
08-02-2005, 01:31 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by fst951
Randy, all that work and still a busted up windshield washer reservoir cover? How disgraceful....maybe Tim Murphy will send you one so that the two of you can kiss and make up! Get a new filler neck and cap on that sucker!
08-02-2005, 02:28 PM
#18
"I am not a chemist but I deal with cast aluminum all the time. It is my experiance that you don't want to use most of these products on exposed aluminum surfaces. A big mistake I have seen many people do is use these products agressively and not properly remove them after use. They allow the product to dry on the surface and over time they are left with damaged material."
As i said in another thread, i've been using "Wheel Acid" on my 928 plenum and aluminum bits for three years, and for about 10 years on various vehicles i've owned, never once had a problem. KEEP IT AWAY FROM POLISHED SURFACES THOUGH.
If you get wheel acid on a polished surface it will become a satin surface instantly, lol.
As i said in another thread, i've been using "Wheel Acid" on my 928 plenum and aluminum bits for three years, and for about 10 years on various vehicles i've owned, never once had a problem. KEEP IT AWAY FROM POLISHED SURFACES THOUGH.
If you get wheel acid on a polished surface it will become a satin surface instantly, lol.
08-02-2005, 02:49 PM
#19
Racer
Thread Starter
This is getting off topic, but the comment above about the windshield washer reservoir cap caught my eye. I have (had) the same thing and assumed it was the result of excessive engine overheating. Randy, do you know the cause on your car?
08-02-2005, 03:16 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by m21sniper
KEEP IT AWAY FROM POLISHED SURFACES THOUGH.
If you get wheel acid on a polished surface it will become a satin surface instantly, lol.
If you get wheel acid on a polished surface it will become a satin surface instantly, lol.
That is what I was trying to point out. These products work great at what they are intended to do. They just can be a bit tricky when working alongside other finishes. These citrus degreasers do a decent job without having to worry about damaging anything nearby. Six of one.
BTW I don't know if this helps sniper but if you click on the quotation marks on the lower right hand conner of the post it automatically sets the quote up for a quick response.
Keep it shinning
08-02-2005, 03:59 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
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Yeah...the "Brite Alum" product I mentioned in the earlier post in this thread is an acidic product, and should be carefully applied to "substantial" materialed cast aluminum alloy parts OFF the vehicle...it is an "inhibited" acid solution....similar in nature to Muriatic acid, (as compared to its uninhibited version..hydrochloric acid)...in any event...I have found that when properly used, this stuff works fantastic on every aluminum alloy part I've tried, and, at $8 a gallon, you can do a bunch of cleaning/oxidation removal, in short order with this stuff. It is also OK for finer material, such as AC condenser unit finned cores, and radiators, as long as you take them out of the "bath" frequently, rinse and inspect, and continue till the desired results have been achieved. Next to actual hand "polishing"..its the best aluminum cleaning product I've run across to date... 
08-02-2005, 04:01 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by AJK
This is getting off topic, but the comment above about the windshield washer reservoir cap caught my eye. I have (had) the same thing and assumed it was the result of excessive engine overheating. Randy, do you know the cause on your car?
