+ Engine mousse 170kb pic +
Steam Cleaning is the best in my opine. Whenever I would take in my 996's for service at the Porsche dealership they would pressure steam clean the engine compartment, no chemicals, detergents, or anything left behind that could later case problems if not washed away completely.
Boy was that engine compartment sweet looking and super clean when done, as if it were new off the show room floor.
Boy was that engine compartment sweet looking and super clean when done, as if it were new off the show room floor.
"Anyway, your car, your call... nothing personal, I'm just looking out for the shark."
Been using it on the motor of my shark for three years, nary a problem. Been using it on all my cars for almost ten years, again....nary a problem.
Been using it on the motor of my shark for three years, nary a problem. Been using it on all my cars for almost ten years, again....nary a problem.
Originally Posted by m21sniper
"Anyway, your car, your call... nothing personal, I'm just looking out for the shark."
Been using it on the motor of my shark for three years, nary a problem. Been using it on all my cars for almost ten years, again....nary a problem.
Been using it on the motor of my shark for three years, nary a problem. Been using it on all my cars for almost ten years, again....nary a problem.
I've used the phosphoric acid wheel cleaners on my engine before too. Just be careful where you spray it, use rubber gloves, and wash off quickly. I take Never-dull and/or fine steel wool to the metal parts to shine them up afterwards. Doesn't hurt things.
-Rough running after you hose down the engine: Occasionally, people have had bad plug wires that literally shoot out of the engine bay. If a small amount of water gets under the wire, down in the recesses of the spark plugs [2 valve engine], when the engine is started and begins to warm, the water boils and can literally pop the wire off!
I had a mechanic tell me that if your engine can't take a small amount of spray without running rough, then you have bad contacts somewhere.
N!
-Rough running after you hose down the engine: Occasionally, people have had bad plug wires that literally shoot out of the engine bay. If a small amount of water gets under the wire, down in the recesses of the spark plugs [2 valve engine], when the engine is started and begins to warm, the water boils and can literally pop the wire off!
I had a mechanic tell me that if your engine can't take a small amount of spray without running rough, then you have bad contacts somewhere.
N!
Thread Starter
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,372
Likes: 1
From: Gatineau/Ottawa Canada 84 928S triple black
Originally Posted by Normy
I had a mechanic tell me that if your engine can't take a small amount of spray without running rough, then you have bad contacts somewhere.
N!
N!
If I remember correctly, the engine goes down not up but it is hard to say. Will have to ask a friend to look at tach to conferm.
"That's great... I'm just sayin'... Well, I wouldn't use it on my almost 30 year-old shark that I want to enjoy for at least another 30 years..."
Hey man, you don't know me from a hole in the wall. Your skepticism is understandable....but i've still had excellent experiences with the stuff.
Hey man, you don't know me from a hole in the wall. Your skepticism is understandable....but i've still had excellent experiences with the stuff.
I'm sure it shines things up great... no doubts about that. I just remember the kinds of results I had using that on my Libre wheels on my old Z, and the electrolytic action of the dissimilar metals(alloy wheels, chromed steel lugs and washers) caused the steel washers to corrode so bad to the wheels that I had to fight to get them off.... same kind of dissimilar metal interfaces that abound in the engine bay wherever a bolt meets aluminum. The problem was not a problem(i.e. invisible) until I went to take it apart.
Again, your car, your call... but others may wish to be aware of some potential pitfalls with this approach.
Again, your car, your call... but others may wish to be aware of some potential pitfalls with this approach.
Originally Posted by SharkSkin
I'm sure it shines things up great... no doubts about that. I just remember the kinds of results I had using that on my Libre wheels on my old Z, and the electrolytic action of the dissimilar metals(alloy wheels, chromed steel lugs and washers) caused the steel washers to corrode so bad to the wheels that I had to fight to get them off.... same kind of dissimilar metal interfaces that abound in the engine bay wherever a bolt meets aluminum. The problem was not a problem(i.e. invisible) until I went to take it apart.
Again, your car, your call... but others may wish to be aware of some potential pitfalls with this approach.
Again, your car, your call... but others may wish to be aware of some potential pitfalls with this approach.
STEAM CLEAN IT =3
Originally Posted by John Krawczyk
I just flashed on an Aqua Teen Hunger force episode.
"had to get this tatooed on the inside, 'cause if my dad saw it he'd totally kick my ***. He owns a dealership."
Originally Posted by Normy
I've used the phosphoric acid wheel cleaners on my engine before too. Just be careful where you spray it, use rubber gloves, and wash off quickly. I take Never-dull and/or fine steel wool to the metal parts to shine them up afterwards. Doesn't hurt things.
-Rough running after you hose down the engine: Occasionally, people have had bad plug wires that literally shoot out of the engine bay. If a small amount of water gets under the wire, down in the recesses of the spark plugs [2 valve engine], when the engine is started and begins to warm, the water boils and can literally pop the wire off!
I had a mechanic tell me that if your engine can't take a small amount of spray without running rough, then you have bad contacts somewhere.
N!
-Rough running after you hose down the engine: Occasionally, people have had bad plug wires that literally shoot out of the engine bay. If a small amount of water gets under the wire, down in the recesses of the spark plugs [2 valve engine], when the engine is started and begins to warm, the water boils and can literally pop the wire off!
I had a mechanic tell me that if your engine can't take a small amount of spray without running rough, then you have bad contacts somewhere.
N!
Normy,
what's the foam on the crossmember?
Hey Devin!
-I kept burning my hand whenever I found myself leaning over the engine after driving the car. So I went to Home Depot and bought some tubing insulation for hot water heaters. In this case, gray, and soft. Cost about $1. Now my hand doesn't get burned, and it looks fine, I guess. I want a chrome X-brace....I'm trying to figure out how I can make that look right with the foam. I'd love to get some sort of fabric covering a la BMX bike with the word "P O R S C H E" spelled out in script, or at least "M28-21".
N!
-I kept burning my hand whenever I found myself leaning over the engine after driving the car. So I went to Home Depot and bought some tubing insulation for hot water heaters. In this case, gray, and soft. Cost about $1. Now my hand doesn't get burned, and it looks fine, I guess. I want a chrome X-brace....I'm trying to figure out how I can make that look right with the foam. I'd love to get some sort of fabric covering a la BMX bike with the word "P O R S C H E" spelled out in script, or at least "M28-21".
N!
Normy, i have a 928S logo on my sway bar, it looks pretty cool.
http://www.worldaffairsboard.com/showthread.php?t=1580
5th picture down. 7th picture down is even better.
These are old pix, the motor looks a lot better now.
http://www.worldaffairsboard.com/showthread.php?t=1580
5th picture down. 7th picture down is even better.
These are old pix, the motor looks a lot better now.
Originally Posted by m21sniper
Normy, i have a 928S logo on my sway bar, it looks pretty cool.
http://www.worldaffairsboard.com/showthread.php?t=1580
5th picture down. 7th picture down is even better.
These are old pix, the motor looks a lot better now.
http://www.worldaffairsboard.com/showthread.php?t=1580
5th picture down. 7th picture down is even better.
These are old pix, the motor looks a lot better now.

N!
Thanx for the compliments normy. 
That decal is the same as the stock decal from the back of the car. I *think* either 928 specialists or 928 int'l(or both) sell the full lineup of 928 decals, including the "928 V-8" decal i have on my airbox.
The air inlet hoses are thick/smoothwalled 3" ID hoses. There is a guy that sells the kit on ebay for like $125.00 or something, which is the kit i have.
After i got the kit and saw what he used, i determined i could make the same thing myself for about $35-40 dollars in materials.
Basically all you need is 6 large hose clamps, two long 3" hoses, and 2 fairly pliable 3 1/4" ID hose sections about 6" long.
If you look at picture #7 on the thread i linked to you should be able to see how it's all set up using the parts i described above. I have a much higher resolution pic on my hard drive. If you want i can email it to you so you can see a more close up view of the set up.
I also used red zip ties to hold down the airbox. They blend in very well with the red airbox and hold it in place much more securely than the OEM rubber straps.
The blue 'hosing' in the pic is actually blue environmental wrap. Pep boys sells that stuff in their 'performance' aisle. I thought it added a nice contrast to the red and silver. It's available in red, black, yellow, and blue.
For the paint i used several very thin coats of "Royal Guards red" 500degree engine paint. The crest on the plenum is hand painted using regular hobby paints. The paint has held up extremely well so far(almost 2 years).
Again, thanx for the kind words.

That decal is the same as the stock decal from the back of the car. I *think* either 928 specialists or 928 int'l(or both) sell the full lineup of 928 decals, including the "928 V-8" decal i have on my airbox.
The air inlet hoses are thick/smoothwalled 3" ID hoses. There is a guy that sells the kit on ebay for like $125.00 or something, which is the kit i have.
After i got the kit and saw what he used, i determined i could make the same thing myself for about $35-40 dollars in materials.
Basically all you need is 6 large hose clamps, two long 3" hoses, and 2 fairly pliable 3 1/4" ID hose sections about 6" long.
If you look at picture #7 on the thread i linked to you should be able to see how it's all set up using the parts i described above. I have a much higher resolution pic on my hard drive. If you want i can email it to you so you can see a more close up view of the set up.
I also used red zip ties to hold down the airbox. They blend in very well with the red airbox and hold it in place much more securely than the OEM rubber straps.
The blue 'hosing' in the pic is actually blue environmental wrap. Pep boys sells that stuff in their 'performance' aisle. I thought it added a nice contrast to the red and silver. It's available in red, black, yellow, and blue.
For the paint i used several very thin coats of "Royal Guards red" 500degree engine paint. The crest on the plenum is hand painted using regular hobby paints. The paint has held up extremely well so far(almost 2 years).
Again, thanx for the kind words.

