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timing belt?

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Old 07-21-2005, 12:10 PM
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Jim_H
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Originally Posted by Garth S
If you have the manuals as mentioned, WSM Vol 1, section 15-9 begins an ~ 20 page TB/pump mtce. procedure: It is a MUST read - the pics clearly show the cam gear notches and index marks referred to in my earlier post.
It is not imperative that you follow the advice asked for; however, you have confirmed that the TB is excessively loose. At this point, some may consider it wise to hide the ignition key - and proceed to checking the cam timing. If the timing is within 1/2 tooth as indicated by the notches cut into the back side of the cam gears and the reference points cast into their backing plates .... proceed to add tension to the belt to the level described ( loosen 17mm locknut on the tensioner body and turn the bolt inwards ... etc .)
If the index marks do NOT line up, consider yourself fortunate that this is not a 32 valve interference engine .. and keep the ignition key hidden until the motor is correctly timed.
This link to timing belts leads to many more valuable items if you page back.
Old 07-21-2005, 02:02 PM
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bran3b
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I am not driving it. I did crank it over once after towing it home but didn't sound right so I started after the belt. I already have the belt, water pump, and tensioner tool, and am trying to find tensioner parts locally.

I did find the instructions mentioned by Garth, I do not know why I missed them the first time that I looked.

Thanks for all of the advice, I will follow all of the recomendations that have been made. I did not mean to imply that I was second guessing anybody. There are some things that I need to do for this particular problem (air/fuel/spark...) and other things that I need to do anyway (timing belt/water pump...). I just started with the timing belt because I cannot confirm how old it is, and it has the potential to destroy much more than some of the other problems, which caused the car to fail the other day. I apologize if I seemed to be ignoring some of the suggestions.

Thanks to all,
Bran
Old 07-21-2005, 02:44 PM
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Garth S
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Hey Bran,
Excuse my forceful comments - but I sensed a risk that this (loose TB) could have turned in less satisfying direction, and I wanted to grab your attention before that could occur. I guess it worked ..... hopefully not too well ... . You are clearly on the right track - which is what we all wish for you and your new ride.
If we can help at all, it would be a pleasure. The first time through on many of these issues reveals the intimidation factor to be far higher than the difficulty of the fix - you will be a 'seasoned' TB/H2O pump expert very soon.
Old 07-21-2005, 02:57 PM
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AO
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Bran-

FYI... I doubt you can source the tensioner parts locally as the rubber boot is no longer available. Both 928 Spec and 928 Int'l have a kit that has the boot for the later models + a spacer that will give you a proper fit.
Old 07-21-2005, 05:09 PM
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bran3b
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Garth, no worries, considering the possible damage I think that a direct approach was warrented. Thanks.

Andrew, I took your advice and ordered the boot and extension and should have it tomorrow. Thanks.

Bran
Old 07-31-2005, 04:58 PM
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bran3b
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Ok, TB and water pump replaced.

Now for the real problem, the car will barely start, then idles at less than 500 RPM, if at all. I can sometimes get the RPMs up a little, but not much. I replaced the fuel pump and injection relays, and can hear the pump. The engine runs normally if I shoot starter fluid in under the air filter. I also replaced the fuel filter. Does anybody have any ideas where I should look next?

Thanks,
Old 07-31-2005, 05:17 PM
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Garth S
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Good work so far! The issue is likely something small.
For an '82, the distributor could have been moved or a vac line left off. Re vacuum, a loose oil dipstick or its tube - or anything else that lets unmetered air into the intake ( or sump) can upset the works. .... so recheck everything that was loosened/removed ( eg. the rubber fill line from the oil fill port to the sump often turns to mush when touched after 20 years.
After the TB tension was set, were there one or more episodes of two complete engine revolutions to reconfirm tension - and more importantly, that at true TDC, the cam drive and block index marks aligned within 1/2 a tooth.
Another too common oversight that will do this is forgetting to reclip the wire harness to the AFM .....
This is not exhaustive, but the point is to systematically retrace the disassembly.
Old 07-31-2005, 06:15 PM
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bran3b
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That did it. I started the car and fought to keep it running while I listened for vacuume leaks, then shutdown (let it die) and checked all electrical connections. Then I restarted, which it did, bu t barely, then minute by minute it got smoother until it is running normally now. Now I just have to figure out which connection did it, and write it down for next time.

Thanks for all the help, for a minute there I was starting to not like the 928, glad that is over.



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