bran3b

what do you think that chances that a failed tensoner would cause my 82 to not be able to accelerate from an idle? I am thinking that if the tensioner pully bearings failed that the belt would likely skip a tooth casuing the cams to be retarded, allowing the engine to run, but die as soon as the throttle is pressed. There was a ticking coming from the front of the engine before the drive home today. Is my theory likely, or should I look somewhere else? I was told that the TB was replaced ~40k miles ago, so it is due anyway.

Thanks,
Bran

ErnestSw

The tensioner ONLY compensates for the change in block temperature. It sounds like you have a fuel/air problem.

GlenL

Could be. But not likely.

Model and year of car?

bran3b

it is an 82 928 US. My 1st thought was the fuel pump, but it was a sudden problem, but not a complete failure.

Thanks,

GlenL

Lots of stuff to check for driveability problems. (Why can't they just fail?) Replacing the fuel filter can help. Toss some techron in the gas afterwards. Could be the fuel pressue regulator. Maybe a vacuum hose is leaking or has come loose. Check the "green wire" running off the distributor for abrasion and bad connections.

bran3b

I will check all of those, thanks GlenL. I did check the distributor, the cap and rotor look ok, but not great, so I will probably replace them and the coil. How much fuel pressure should I have?

I also pulled the passenger side belt cover while I was waiting for responses, and the belt looks decent and relatively tight, I will check with the gauge when I can. I did notice that the idler seems solid at first glance, although it spins freely, but that might be normal, I was just expecting it to be in contact with the belt.

The car will not start at all. It seems like it is spinning a little fast, but at this point I am probably imagining it. Thanks again for all of the help.

Bran

Garth S

The TB will always 'look tight' when viewed from the top covers. If you have the right cover off, rotate to TDC assuring the cam marks and index points line up - this is your only test regards skipping a tooth.
Now is the time to do the belt tension - and if you do not have a gauge, the thumb-forefinger pinch at the magic spot should allow one of average strength to twist the belt slightly <90 deg. Crude - maybe, but it works.
If you ever suspect a too loose belt, look into the open area of the center cover to the right of the crank ( from under the car) - I've actually seen a small loop of slack in this location of cars that have not jumped a cog - but quickly recommend a snug up on the tensioner.

GlenL

Since it's not starting it's time for the timing light and starting fluid. Check to see if you're getting a spark.

If so then blast some starting fluid into the intake. Should do something at this point.

For a confidence check, put the crank at TDC and check for the right cam to be on the marks. May need to turn the engine around again if the marks are not seen at all. The belt will slip first and most at the right cam if there's a problem.

DG84S

bran3b,
Review the photo below. The free-wheeling pulley you mentioned doesn't affect the belt tension, it just controls oscillations during acceleration and deceleration. The tension is applied by the larger pulley beneath it.

bran3b

Thanks!!! I will let you know what I find.

Bran

bran3b

I haven't found any air/fuel delivery or ignition issues yet, but I will keep looking.

I decided that I would go ahead and replace the timing belt and water pump since I suspect a bad bearing in the water pump and discovered that the driver side sprocket has two marks, a white one in the valley and a red one on a peak, and the driver's side housing doesn't have a pointer that I can see, the white mark is pointing roughly up the center of the distributor. What should I align the drivers side cam to? I also noticed that there is slack before (under) the passenger side cam, I can move the belt over an inch up and down without resistance.

Thanks again for all of your help, I wish that my manual was more helpful.

Bran

Jim_H

Please put the year Shark you drive in your signature so it is easier for those with knowledge (not me) to help you.

bran3b

I just signed up for a member status, hopefully the signature feature will work for me soon.

Garth S

If you have the manuals as mentioned, WSM Vol 1, section 15-9 begins an ~ 20 page TB/pump mtce. procedure: It is a MUST read - the pics clearly show the cam gear notches and index marks referred to in my earlier post.
It is not imperative that you follow the advice asked for; however, you have confirmed that the TB is excessively loose. At this point, some may consider it wise to hide the ignition key - and proceed to checking the cam timing. If the timing is within 1/2 tooth as indicated by the notches cut into the back side of the cam gears and the reference points cast into their backing plates .... proceed to add tension to the belt to the level described ( loosen 17mm locknut on the tensioner body and turn the bolt inwards ... etc .)
If the index marks do NOT line up, consider yourself fortunate that this is not a 32 valve interference engine .. and keep the ignition key hidden until the motor is correctly timed.
This link to timing belts leads to many more valuable items if you page back.

DG84S

bran3b,
Pls heed the instructions in Garth's post. You are close to owning a 'parts' car if you continue to drive it in its current condition. Spend the next week or two gathering information, tools, and parts. You'll need a flywheel lock and Kempf tensioning gauge. Don't forget to rebuild the tensioner, replacing pulleys and bushings (and possibly the shoulder bolt). Invite some Denver-area Rennlisters to a Saturday T-Belt/keg party (T-Belt first!). Good luck.