185318

yeah..they amazed me with the knowledge they have.

nuthin wrong with the color, i just did a 1/2 assed job and didn't match the color of the frame. if i keep it red, i need to match the body paint of the car...THEN it'll look a whole lot more better!

ErnestSw

If I were you I'd do the Full Monte, ie. heads, valve covers, intake, gaskets, gizmos, hoses, mounts, etc, at the same time.

185318

Right...I'm already in the process of making a list and gathering parts.
Ernest, you know where we left the car. I have a question. Is there anything keeping the car from starting using it's own fuel source? I jumpered the fuel pump relay and fuel is still getting to the fuel rails, but I can't start the car unless I do what we did yesterday, which is introduce carb cleaner into the intake. This is the only way the engine will start. Shouldn't the car start and run, or am I jumping the gun and should I just wait until the proper relays and the ingnition switch get intalled?

docmirror

Okay, how about an update? I'll try not to ramble too much. Car is an '87 928S4 with about 110,000. Red with black, 5 speed and LSD. Car died while running, and would crank but not refire. Hard to determine rot cause as car had been worked on by at least two unqualified mechs previously.

Diagnostics and results;1. Pull all plugs, check for spark on left and right, no ignition. 2. Check compression of 1 & 8, both show < 70PSI. 3. Expose crank timing triggerwires, found one wire disconnected(shield?) 4.Check spark on all cyl, one spark possibly seen by John at the moment key is released(important). 5. Swap EZK module, same result, one spark when key is released. 6. Pull pass side dist and check belt tension & timing. It was loose, so Jim and Jon set the tension. Timing was okay.

As this point, both Jim and I, assisted by everyone elsefigured a failed ignition switch. Jim and I got to looking at the wiring harness to figure the best way to test and eliminate ignition switch. Ernie and John worked on getting the fuel system tested. They ound no fuel mump when key on, and traced probem back to relay socket with Jim's help. I wanted to investigate the crank trigger while Roger pulled the pod to expose the ignition. Crank trigger showed previous hacking to the connector, and loose and broken housing made by liquiid steel compound.

Remove and clean crank trigger, replace, and connect to EZK harness. Check signal at pin 3 of trigger and looks okay. Roger haspod off, and we study diagrams to figure jumping switch, and using a jumpwire to start. The swicth has 'off - acc - on - start. As the diagram shows, when the key is in the start position the acc is off, and the on is connected. Wiper is pin 30 and ign is pins 15 & 15'. These feed 12V to both the coil amps upin the front area, and the coils. The trigger comes trough the EXK and is fed to the coil amps, then to the coils.

We bridged pin 30 to 15 & 15', then used a jumper to start from below. The car showed spark on all 8 cylinders. At this point the igniiton switch was determined to be the most likely proximate casuse of the fault. The other fellas were looking into the fuel situation, and thatproved to be the relay socket. It was bridged with a jumper and the pump ran. The host wanted to hear the car start, so we put the plugs in, bridged the ignition and I started the car with a can of carb cleaner.

There is a lot of oil accumulated in the intakes and due to the prev work, and possible vacuum leaks. The car started on the can of carb spray, but would not run on it's own, with fuel from the LH. I listened for the clicking of the injectors, and never herad it. Ernie found a test lead, and the lead to the injetor shows 12V on both pins at key on, but not cranked. Is this normal? I haven't looked at the circuit to determine if it is a negative pulse to fire the injectors, but they didn't fire.

At this time, it was getting late, and we had discovered the ignition issues, and some other things for Jon to look into. There is still something funny with the LH control, and the injector firing. Once the igniton is replaced, and the fuel pump relay socket repaired, I will go back and look into the LH fire issue. We swapped the LH, and I believe the same result. Thanks to all that showed up, and to Jon for being an excellent host. He has a desireable car, and will be nice to get it back in service soon!

Doc

ErnestSw

Hi Jon,
The car would only start if the ignition switch was jumped AND the starting motor was jumped. We never figured out how to use the ignition jumper to get power AND activate the starting motor, so no, your car should not start until you replace the ignition switch.
Please send me your phone number.

docmirror

Sorry about the poor spelling, and lack of spaces. I'm in a rush, and borrowing my son's new laptop. Not a very good keyboard and stiff. We may be missing a power or triger to t he LH side of the system. Until the needed parts are installed, we're at a stopping point.

Doc

185318

Ernie\Doc,

Thanks for the replies. Doc, I got your PM. Ok, that's what I wasn't sure of, so I'll get the new parts and let you guys know when they're installed. It's just that the car hadn't run in over a year and the sound of it runningyesterday messed with my head!!!



Thanks again!

Steve J.

I have technical manual WKD 493 921 "Test Plan - EZK-Ignition and LH-Jetronic '87 - Service Training Center". It helped me a lot sorting mine out. Some info not in the WSM. (This publication might be on the Moorhouse CD's?) You are welcome to borrow it or I can bring it if you have another session.

185318

Steve,

That would be great! I'll let you know when it all comes back together for another session. Unfortunately I live way too far out in the boonies!! I'll install a new ingnition switch and new relays and see what we have then. Once these are installed, hopefully the car will start and run. If it does or doesn't, I need to determine the path I need to take as far as all the additional work that needs to be done..valves, etc...

ROG100

Hi John,
I had time to decode your options : -
158 = Radio "Reno"
220 = Locking Differential
302 = Type designation on rear
418 = Protective side moldings
474 = Sports shocks (Bilsteins)
481 = Five speed
490 = Hi Fi System
494 = Two speakers in rear and amplifier
533 = Alarm System
570 = Rear Air
650 = Sunroof

185318

Roger,
Thanks! I never knew! This is good info to know! BTW...Do you know what a "reno" radio is?

ROG100

Jon,
Made by Blaupunkt and is a radio cassette player.
You can still buy units on eBay if you want to go back to stock.

185318

Thanks Roger..maybe when I get everything else fixed?? btw..., I pulled the alarm and am cleaning up a bit of wiring around the relay panel, so I may not have any radio at all now, but that's the least of my worries!!

Later,
Jon