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I have found this company CAIG that makes some high quality contact cleaner and insulator (from reviews I have read) has anyone used this to solve an electrical problem?
Nope... thing with insulating greases is, you only get conductivity on the microscopic high spots where the contacts actually touch. Stabilant is unique AFAIK, in that it acts as an insulator except that when it fills a microscopic gap and there is a current it becomes a conductor, enhancing the contact. Conductive grease can short between pins in a connector and insulating grease does nothing to improve the connection; it only helps slow degradation of the connection.
I have found this company CAIG that makes some high quality contact cleaner and insulator (from reviews I have read) has anyone used this to solve an electrical problem?
Nope... thing with insulating greases is, you only get conductivity on the microscopic high spots where the contacts actually touch. Stabilant is unique AFAIK, in that it acts as an insulator except that when it fills a microscopic gap and there is a current it becomes a conductor, enhancing the contact. Conductive grease can short between pins in a connector and insulating grease does nothing to improve the connection; it only helps slow degradation of the connection.
I've used the CAIG stuff and had good success. It's not an insulating or conductive greese. The basically have 2 products, one of which is a contact cleener and the other protects the contacts from corrosion. They don't "enhance conduction" in the way Stabilant claims to, but since corrosion is the primary reason for loss of conduction it works. They make a nice kit which I got which includes brushes and cleaning pads as well. Ordered on line and had it in a few days.
I've used the CAIG stuff and had good success. It's not an insulating or conductive greese. The basically have 2 products, one of which is a contact cleener and the other protects the contacts from corrosion. They don't "enhance conduction" in the way Stabilant claims to, but since corrosion is the primary reason for loss of conduction it works. They make a nice kit which I got which includes brushes and cleaning pads as well. Ordered on line and had it in a few days.
Looks like a nice kit... but what is the grease supposed to be, if not conductive and not insulating? Semiconductor grease?
Looks like a nice kit... but what is the grease supposed to be, if not conductive and not insulating? Semiconductor grease?
They're NOT grease. They're liquids. One is a contact cleaner (removes corrosion, oxides, etc.). The other is a protectant (I think it slightly etches the surface and creates a thin, corrosion resistant layer). Again, NOT a grease.
I'd do the electrical system diagnostics that were suggested earlier in this thread. Could even be a bad ignition switch or one that is failing. Seen the exact same symptoms. Weak battery can cause problems like you describe as well.
The clutch is easy to bleed. Do a search. Tons of info on that.
But I think I broke on the clutch where the stick goes into the unit itself... when I pressed on my clutch pedal it shot straight to the floor and stayed there... I am now downloading the manuals...
Next step is to lift your clutch pedal, put the piston back in the slave cylinder, remount the slave, go pick up several quarts of brake fluid and.... bleed brother, bleed. You'll find plenty of info on bleeding the system if you do a search.
I guess you didn't know not to depress the clutch pedal with the slave removed?
That stuff might be in your bellhousing, ready to jam up the works. You need to find those pieces -- at least the the metal ones -- before you try to start it.
Dude sorry your clutch broke. I’m new to and disconnecting the pressure manifold to the nuclear switch but ensure pos temp 9 with dialectic grease and solenoid 1/4 optics also freaks me out. But I’m learning fast
i have a simpler question I was hoping y’all could help with. The wire going to my starter seems frayed. I’ve heard replacing the engine harness could be the way to go and checking for wire ware in the 14 pin. I haven’t looked too deeply in how to remove and inspect the 14 pin but want to know, can I just patch this wire for now? There doesn’t seem to be a lot of play either. Not sure if I can pull more wire, cut away the frayed part and just connect to the starter? Anyone know if there’s that much extra?
disconnect battery, twist cable to tighten wires, cut away stragglers, heat shrink over and electrical tape either side. Then when I go to have the timing belt changed in a few years have the mechanic review then?
07-14-2005, 11:55 AM
