First, I bought a set from Rock Auto for $23 ea plus shipping so my decision is made to install them based upon advice from this board. However,

We know the Ford '90 Bronco mounts are 3mm shorter than new Porsche mounts costing upwards of $240 ea. What, I wonder is what is the squat distance difference between the Ford and stock Porsche mounts? Is it the same? Is the orifice the same (if there is a orifice in a hydralic mount)? Is the dampning the same? All the mechanics* I talked to said they would never recommend the Ford mounts to a customer, but would give them a try for their own cars. Is it possible the Ford mounts and Porsche mounts are made by the same non-german mount maker?

*make their sole living working on cars, not necessarily Porsches.

 

'Tee..........I changed my MMs this past winter and procured the new mounts from my local NAPA store. The mounts are the Anchor full sized Ford Bronco inline 6 cylinder 300 cu in part # on them, 2698. With the old mounts still on the engine the top of the intake manifold was below the top of the cross brace of the engine compartment and upon replacement the same reference point was is 13mm higher. The engine now rocks back and forth with every rev and is smooth all the way through the rev range. While my response is not scientific by any stretch the new mounts work and at more than $400 US cheaper well worth it and if they dont last as long as the originals changing the mounts again will be a far easier task than the first time around.

Some folks have made up the 3mm difference with a washer, others didn't bother.

 

I measured the Anchor mounts at 76mm vs a quoted 78mm for new OEM: I added a 2mm spacer on the top when installing - and could have done without, for the right airtube is a tight fit under the cross brace. That infers that (initial) mount compression is not an issue: perhaps they do not compress as much as the Porsche units ... ???
The engine and chassis ? - now smooth as silk ......
The detailed configuration of the two mounts is noticeably different; however, not in a manner to effect function: clearly from different sources.

 

I still haven't fitted mine though I've had them for six months. But my excuse is that I'm still looking for a cheap pressure washer so I can clean the underside of the engine bay before starting.

 

Garden sprayer (metal preferred), 1 gal varsol or paint thinner from Home Depot. Spray and wait, then spray again, then wait, then spray again. Put a sheet under car to catch the crap. Suggest you not use one of your wifes' favorite pink sheets. Next day should be clean enough to work without too much trouble. Once you have it opened it up, spray again.

Pressure washers can cause all sorts of problems.

 

since the mounts that are being replaced are significantly squished well beyond the 2mm in question is there any benefit to making up the difference? and Should one release the flexplate collar after installation of new mms?

 

All mm's and fractions of an inches will help when new mounts eventually collapse. There's no need to touch flexplate as engine, TT and gearbox is one single rigid package. It's good to check it periodically so if car is up anyway might as well do it at same time.

 

"I still haven't fitted mine though I've had them for six months. But my excuse is that I'm still looking for a cheap pressure washer so I can clean the underside of the engine bay before starting."

Carb cleaner works great for that too, but is obviously a bit more pricey than water, lol.

Just make sure you're in a well ventillated area, and don't light a match till the fumes clear...

 

I recently measuered worn out mounts and new ones. The new ones (genuine) had an extra 16 mm in height. The new ones will also compress at the beginning it appears as the rubber slightly stretches. So it you are only 2 mm out, I would suggest that is auctually the right height allowing for the Porsche ones to settle. That was a smart thing you did in measuring before an after. We now have some pretty decisive data.

 

I put the Anchor mounts in my 84 and I believe they were made in India. Can't comment on the long term success of these mounts, but the extra $300 in my jeans was nice. Don't forget, WYAT you should consider doing the pan gasket if required. I also did the steering rack and tierods because they were all shot. All the labour is just getting in there, plus cleaning the years of grime...

 

Okay, lots of stuff to work on here.

squat distance; Not comparable between the OEM and Anchor mounts. The hydraulic mount will have less squish initially, but will have more squish later.

No orifice on a solid rubber mount.

Damping will be different, the rubber mount will transmit slightly more low order vibration than a NEW hydro mount. The Porsche has very little low order vibration, so it's seems that it's not an issue.

Maker for the two mounts is not the same. There are probably 5-7 makers for the Anchor 2698. The Porsche OEM was speced by Porsche for the car, and a certain number were made for production and refurb. If Porsche had a demand for more mounts, they would remake them from the same material. the Anchor mount also fits other cars, other trucks. They are vicariously made in China, India, Mexico, Taiwan, and USA.

I would(and have) avoided the China made mounts due to the materials used for many Chinese products lag far behind the materials from other countries. Steel that isn't Steel(pig iron), rubber that isn't rubber(molded plastic goo), etc. Just one man's experience, YMMV.

Doc 90GT in resto (with new Anchor mounts)

 

Doc, perhaps I had missed something in the above ( or misunderstand) , but solid mounts were not inferred in the discussion; however, your point is a good one as solids are available should the hydraulic dampening not be desired
..... the Anchor mounts are available in two flavours, hydraulic and solid: The units I had installed were the #2698HDY (hydraulic). I suspect that this would represent >95% of the sales for 928 applications. A few have noted opting for the solid #2698 for special reasons - like heat concerns when running headers, never again wishing to deal with collapsed mounts, masochistic towards vibration, ..

 

Way-alll, all the ones I've put in were solid. PN 2698HYD is different than PN 2698. Some Ford applications specify hydraulic, some do not. As mentioned, a hydraulic mount will help dampen low order harmonics, such as found on a straight six, or some in-line 4 engines. I have the solids, so does Ernie, Roger, and Jim in DFW. I don't think any of us have issues with masochistic levels of vibration.

I do have issues with masochistic tendendcies to do the job over again.....

Doc

 

Garth S was correct, I have the hydraulic version of 2698 bought from Rock Auto and docmirror makes a good point about not going through the operation a second time. From what is said, using Ford to replace Porsche for a $200 delta per side, is a risk worth taking with no long term repercu$$ion$.