928 Weight Loss
07-06-2005, 05:09 PM
#31
Originally Posted by PorKen
Brendan,
I still have to make a form for the sunroof panel, before I can make more. I was thinking of using the same spot on the sunroofless '80 to get the perfect contour.
Your custom wiring harness should save a few pounds. All that copper adds up.
The bumpers and shocks are on my hit list too. I would like to have some aluminum tube replacements made.
I was looking at the dash that I took out of the '80, and was contemplating making a lighter frame, and covering that with a dash cap like (?)'s race car, then covering that with leather.
I still have to make a form for the sunroof panel, before I can make more. I was thinking of using the same spot on the sunroofless '80 to get the perfect contour.
Your custom wiring harness should save a few pounds. All that copper adds up.
The bumpers and shocks are on my hit list too. I would like to have some aluminum tube replacements made.
I was looking at the dash that I took out of the '80, and was contemplating making a lighter frame, and covering that with a dash cap like (?)'s race car, then covering that with leather.
The dash isn't light, but for a street/DE car, its not that heavy. I have to even GO to an event before I mouth off more.
The bumper bar is a sticky wicket. It seems to really connect the two rails at the nose of the car. It also is a bit of a shape supporter on the early cars. For the plastic bumper that is.
07-06-2005, 05:35 PM
#32
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front rails are connected - by the top metal piece - where hood attaches when closed.
I have no front bar or rear bar, no problems mounting early front bumper at all.
I had the bars in for a long time, for protection, and they work. Until you want those last 50 lbs out and you don't care what happens WHEN you crash (not if), I'd recommend leaving them in.
Having hit a tire wall at 60mph (hard enough that the car was launched on top of the tires and had to be lifted off the tirewall), and there was no real damage to the car I ran the next race, I'm happy with the bars. If that happened on the 911 ...cringe...
'79 Euro +/-
'80 SC +/-
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I have no front bar or rear bar, no problems mounting early front bumper at all.
I had the bars in for a long time, for protection, and they work. Until you want those last 50 lbs out and you don't care what happens WHEN you crash (not if), I'd recommend leaving them in.
Having hit a tire wall at 60mph (hard enough that the car was launched on top of the tires and had to be lifted off the tirewall), and there was no real damage to the car I ran the next race, I'm happy with the bars. If that happened on the 911 ...cringe...
'79 Euro +/-
'80 SC +/-
www.eaglesledge.com
07-06-2005, 06:49 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by John Veninger
I'm down to around 2630 (no fuel) and don't see were another 300lbs can be removed. Maybe another 50.
Willing to do the work to lose weight
Willing to do the work to lose weight
Will PCA Racing allow a 928 convertible?
07-06-2005, 10:26 PM
#36
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Again, we made a 2450, as shown at DEVEK days on the scale a few years ago...just like dynos, scales do not lie!
That means an additional 150. It can be done....lwt rear hatch, starter, remove some body panels and replace wtih alum/cf, etc.
I have the perfect starter shell - a factory body in white that I may turn into a racer soon!
Marc
That means an additional 150. It can be done....lwt rear hatch, starter, remove some body panels and replace wtih alum/cf, etc.
I have the perfect starter shell - a factory body in white that I may turn into a racer soon!
Marc
07-07-2005, 12:10 AM
#37
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Marc,
That is exactly what I'm doing to my recent body shell acquisition- returning it to a "body in white" in order to assure that it as efficient as it can possibly be. One question on the top of my head right this second- Let me ask it this way~ When I raced Datsun 510's it was customary when building a shell for race duty to go along every seam and add supplemental tack welds to augment the factory spot welds. The increase in chassis stiffness was significant enough that one can feel the difference by making that change alone. Would the 928 shell benefit from similar low cost reinforcing measures? I'm working with an '80 US shell without a sunroof.
That is exactly what I'm doing to my recent body shell acquisition- returning it to a "body in white" in order to assure that it as efficient as it can possibly be. One question on the top of my head right this second- Let me ask it this way~ When I raced Datsun 510's it was customary when building a shell for race duty to go along every seam and add supplemental tack welds to augment the factory spot welds. The increase in chassis stiffness was significant enough that one can feel the difference by making that change alone. Would the 928 shell benefit from similar low cost reinforcing measures? I'm working with an '80 US shell without a sunroof.
07-07-2005, 01:06 AM
#38
Originally Posted by DK
front rails are connected - by the top metal piece - where hood attaches when closed.
www.eaglesledge.com
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I would like to LIGHTEN that front bumper but not remove it totally. Same with the rear.
07-08-2005, 12:36 AM
#40
like where would this welding be best suited?
07-08-2005, 12:47 AM
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The stitch welds go wherever two pieces of sheetmetal join and were originally spot welded. I know from my 510 days that you only want to do it in segments, like Marc describes above. It's not a case of "if a little is good, more is better". Chasing the entire seam and welding it up will more often than not result in overheating and warping the original joint. The seams that benefit most will be the ones around the engine compartment and what one would perceive to be the "frame rails" at the front of the car.
