Dave Howerdel

I've had a similiar issue on the 85 with instability during acceleration as mentioned in this thread. Last night I got the car in the air to take a look at the pivot pin. First thing I noticed is that I was able to wiggle the wheel about 1/2cm.
Upon further investigation, I noticed that the someone had placed the washer between the hub and the strut when it should go on the other side of the strut.
PO's

I thought I would be able to remove the nuts slide the pin out the back and reassemble correctly, but the pin would not come out. The rotor prevents removal from the other direction. The question is this. Do I have to drop the hub down to get the pin out? Is there something locking it in there? I really don't want to remove the caliper, rotor, axle nut, pbrake cable, etc. if I don't have to. Any tips

I've done wheel bearing on the 88 and don't remember running into this much trouble(of course I had everthing apart).

Jim R.

Dave,

When I removed mine, I used a long brass punch and a hammer to drive the pin out towards the rear. Use plenty of penetrating lube to break the corrosion and be carefull of the threads.

Jim

AO

Dave-
I ran into a similar issue when i replaced my shocks. You should be able to slide it out, but it might be tough. I used a slide hammer with a 3-prong jaw on the big fender washer. Upon reassembly, I made sure I lube it according to spec. Hope this helps.

DR

When removing the rear lower control arm "pin", first take an extra M14 Nut (pick up at hardware store or order one (part #90091009402 $2.66) and thread it on the rear Pin nut so it acts as a jam nut on the original nut.

Use 2 22mm wrenches, one on each original nut and remove the front nut. ( the rear original nut will be "jammed" and will not loosen).

Insert a prying type tool (fork, larger screw driver etc) behind the rear washer, then use an air impact and spin the Pin assembly from the rear nuts as you pry the washer towards the rear. (FYI, you will need to spin the impact in forward direction so as not to remove the rear nuts).

When you get it about 1" out and it is still stubborn, use your 22mm wrench behind the washer instead of the pry bar and pressure towards the rear as you continue spinning.

Be sure and lube it before reinstalling so it will be easier next time.

Dave Howerdel

I tried something simialr to this last night but I used the nut that I had removed from the other side. I used a 1/2 breaker bar to try and turn the pin, no luck. I even threw a chaeter pipe on there with no luck ( was afraid to put too much pressure for fear of striping the nuts or breaking the pin). Would it be safe to try my impact gun on it without doing any damage?

DR

>Would it be safe to try my impact gun on it without doing any damage?

It should be fine using a 1/2" impact ( a good 3/4" or 1" might break the threaded portion off it is REALLY stuck), I have been removing them that way for 15 years and haven't had any issues... so far.

Dave Howerdel

Thanks all. It's been soaking in penetrant all day.
Dave,
I'll give it a try again tonight.

Garth S

DR,
Reading your method was like having a bad dream - or as Yogi claimed " Deja vu all over again!". I've had great luck with my cars - but in pulling apart the rear of an experienced, salty '85 Euro, that is exactly the method I used. The impact gun worked ~ 1.5 hrs, but the pins came out. I could never have done it by hand. A coat of antiseize is good insurance ....

Dave Howerdel

Wow it took that long to pull the pin? I guess it is a slow go once you get it moving.

When I did the rear bearings on the 88, I remember the pins coming out fairly easy. But getting the bearing out/in the hub was a different story altogether. Trashed a new one(split it apart) the first time.

Garth S

It did on that one! Actually, both pins were seized - the consequence of cars driven in salt, I guess. As the impact gun starts to turn the pin, it was imperative to pry from behind the double nutted deal as DR said. I also had to oscillate clockwise/countrer clockwise while prying. Hopefully, yours will come out far easier .

k1woods

I struggled with one of those pins for hours on end...decided for my sanity that a new pin from 928 Specialists and a big sledge would cure all - and it did. The threads on the pin are easily damaged and it is an important component.

84 S2

Dave Howerdel

Well
4 hrs on it and No go on the impact gun. Stripped 4 m14 nuts and did some serious damage to the threads. I figured what the hell and pulled out the old sledge. Guess what!!! they still won't budge. I've now severely mushroomed the pivot pin threads.
I think I'll pull out the old sawzall tomorrow and cut the pin on both sides of the hub carrier.

I'm thinking that since this has been loose for a while, it must have bent/damaged the pin causing it to get stuck. I haven't even moved it 1mm.