Clutch pedal is playing hard to get
06-22-2005, 02:24 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Clutch pedal is playing hard to get
I've had a persistent problem that the clutch pedal hesitates to rebound when it is depressed and released (sounds like a mental patient, huh?)
I've just bled the clutch and there are no leaks that I can see. However, there was an intermitent stream of ververy small bubbles when pumping the clutch and powerbleeding at the same time.
How bad could it be?
I've just bled the clutch and there are no leaks that I can see. However, there was an intermitent stream of ververy small bubbles when pumping the clutch and powerbleeding at the same time.
How bad could it be?
06-22-2005, 10:37 AM
#2
Three Wheelin'
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Sounds like you still have air (or getting air) in the system. First inspect the hose that leads from the brake fluid reservoir down to the clutch master cylinder. They often are in poor condition and for good reason......they are not fun to replace, but can be old and cracked and allow air into the system.
Next inspect for ANY leakage along the path from the master cylinder down to the slave......an extending mirror (dentist type) often helps along with good lighting.
I have never had much luck with a power bleeder........but have always had great luck with unmounting the slave cylinder (don't remove the fluid line) and pushing the slaves rod back as far as it would go a few times. This forces the air out the other direction. Once this is done, remount the slave and finish bleeding with the "pump the pedal method". You should now have a fully operational clutch pedal.......and if there is any small amount of air left in the system it should quickly get worked out with a little driving. If the pedal is still not right after this........you may have some bad cylinders and/or lines.
Next inspect for ANY leakage along the path from the master cylinder down to the slave......an extending mirror (dentist type) often helps along with good lighting.
I have never had much luck with a power bleeder........but have always had great luck with unmounting the slave cylinder (don't remove the fluid line) and pushing the slaves rod back as far as it would go a few times. This forces the air out the other direction. Once this is done, remount the slave and finish bleeding with the "pump the pedal method". You should now have a fully operational clutch pedal.......and if there is any small amount of air left in the system it should quickly get worked out with a little driving. If the pedal is still not right after this........you may have some bad cylinders and/or lines.
06-22-2005, 10:55 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
I know exactly what you are talking about! It's like the clutch wanted to stop two thirds of the way up. I had a case of that on my GTS and I still have not fully dealt with it.
I did a couple of things. I replaced the innards of the master cylinder, I re-bled with the assistance of a power bleeder and tried to burp the master. Then I adjusted the clutch preload to the factory specs( inch or so play?).
Most of the symptoms are gone. The play is a bit greater in the morning, but in a couple of miles it is fine. The downside is that clutch gets stiffer the long I drive it. But, compared to the clunk when the pedal returned to its full and upright positon this is much better. I bought a new slave and I will replace it shortly. I hope that will resolve it. I will also but a speed bleeder for the slave because the air leaking around bleeder screw is so annoying.
Good luck.
I did a couple of things. I replaced the innards of the master cylinder, I re-bled with the assistance of a power bleeder and tried to burp the master. Then I adjusted the clutch preload to the factory specs( inch or so play?).
Most of the symptoms are gone. The play is a bit greater in the morning, but in a couple of miles it is fine. The downside is that clutch gets stiffer the long I drive it. But, compared to the clunk when the pedal returned to its full and upright positon this is much better. I bought a new slave and I will replace it shortly. I hope that will resolve it. I will also but a speed bleeder for the slave because the air leaking around bleeder screw is so annoying.
Good luck.
06-22-2005, 12:23 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
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Yeah, according to the manual the method you suggest is the best way to break loose any air bubbles in the cylinder. I'll give it a shot when I get the chance.
I haven't bled the brake master cylinder yet, so when I do that I'll take an extra close look at the lines. I'm suspecting a bad seal somewhere, but I am not very inclined to shotgun parts to fix a relatively minor problem.
It seems like a rebound problem, could there be any mechanical hang-ups going on?
I haven't bled the brake master cylinder yet, so when I do that I'll take an extra close look at the lines. I'm suspecting a bad seal somewhere, but I am not very inclined to shotgun parts to fix a relatively minor problem.
It seems like a rebound problem, could there be any mechanical hang-ups going on?
06-22-2005, 12:33 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
No mechanical hang up. Just air in the system or not enough preload at the master cylinder.
06-22-2005, 06:59 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
I doubt that air in the cylinder supply line(from reservoir) could get into the pressure line - why would it go DOWN to the m/cyl ? Its not exactly rushing into the master, its just gravity replacement of fluid pushed elsewhere. The design of a downward pointing cylinder is a recipe for difficult bleeding!
jp 83 Euro S AT...nuff said
jp 83 Euro S AT...nuff said