Steve Peterson

Out of desperation, I turned to a local V-Dubya wrench to replace my ball cup shifter, and there were, ahem, problems with the outcome. The geometry is all wrong, and the whole shebang is too far forward. Knuckles hitting radio on the R/2/4 shifts, that sort of thing.

I've plumbed the archives on the topic and found many good descriptions of how to change it out (which the clod promptly ignored - me don't need little black marks on clean white paper. I just figure it out. Or ... he skinned a few knuckles on the job, and thought I should pay the price. Either way, my boot is now floating over the ashtray so I can get them gears). But, I haven't found any descriptions of how to adjust a new one after install. Do I have to repeat the whole installation process and turn it a few more/less threads, or can I "cheat" the game a little and reach back under the airbox or up around from underneath, or ??? She's an 81 S with the funky spoilers and a good attitude, but she can't abide the current state of affairs.

Anybody BTDT? Any advice from the sage members of this august forum? Anybody know a better wrench in Central Illinois? I'm 40 miles east of Peoria, and I hear Springfield has the closest P-car wrench (d'oh!).

And yeah, I've got the typical 1-2 synchros, hot air coming through the dash, no rear wiper, drippiun' power sterring hose, toasted leather dash stuff too, but all that can wait ...

Many thanks in advance ....

Paul D

Steve - If your R-2-4 shifts are hitting the radio then the ball cup is screwed into the foward shaft too far (assuming nothing else was changed in the shift linkage). You will need to remove the ball cup from the ball and back it out a few threads. When I replaced mine I accessed it from underneath. Removing exhaust from behind the manifolds and then removing the heat shield. A pry-bar can be used to pry the cap off the ball.

figgen

Like Paul said

They probably did not mark or count the threads on the ball assembly and when the placed the new unit on did not thread in in to the exact same position as the original. very small changes seem to make pretty big differences in the position of the gear shift ****.

Garth S

As has been said .... but a little more detail; You can access the cup by sliding out the heat shield, although it is easier if the CAT (if so equipped) is dropped.
With the trans in neutral, loosen the lock nut and pop off the cup. Adjust the length of the threaded portion to set the shift lever vertical with the cup resting over the ball stud - then unscrew the cup two turns to lenghten the rod. Pull the cup onto the ball - I used a leather belt ...). Next, set the lock nut so that the cup has adequate lateral travel as the lever moves left-right.
Lastly, place a sturdy tie-wrap around the TT and shift lever just ahead of the lock nut - you will thank yourself for this foresight when the cup gives up at some future date, but the shift lever will not seperate leaving one 'shiftless' .

Gretch

To adjust the cup, you have to loosen the lock nut anyway (item 8), which necessitates you do almost all of the work associated with the R&R as described in previous posts .....so you might as well do it that way. However (see schematic) You might be able to back the cup off the threads by spinning the forward rod, after you disconnect it fron the shifter. This cannot be done without loosening the lock nut on the ball cup. One other thing, Though I don't know about the '81, when I installed the short shifter in my 89 GT, a slight forward positioning of the shifter was ameliorated.

WallyP

I've never tried it, but...

You might be able to reach up and loosen the lock nut - don't pop the ball cup off. Then disconnect the shift rod from the lever, and turn the rod until the lever is where you want it. Center the ball cup with the lever in neutral, and snug the locknut.


(Compress the little spring in a vise and tie it with fine copper wire. Install it and cut the wire.)

GlenL

That's what I was thinking. Trying to picture the clearance in the "box." Uummm... Just might work.

Also, if the tranny is in neutral and you turn the fore rod until the pins are aligned vertically, then the lever will be standing straight up when in neutral. That is, the pins that point to the side that the shifter slides on to. Previously I've held the cup on top of the ball and had an assistant in the car check the levers fore/aft action.

Jim bailey - 928 International

Or you can simply try to adjust the rear coupler....item # 2 on the above schematic. Far, far easier. It is inside the rubber boot at the front of the transmission. Mark the location before adjusting so you can get it back.

Gretch

That is brilliant..........goes to show you what experience is worth.

Steve Peterson

Jim, Wally, Gretch, Garth, Paul, and the rest --

Thanks for all the good advice: the 928 community is pretty incredible. If I get the chance this weekend, I'll give it a go, see what happens and post an update. You know, when people talk about defending the American way of life, this forum provides a pretty interesting example. People willing to share what they know, pretty much at the drop of a hat, for folks they will probably never meet. Yeah, us guys try to hide the mushy stuff behind a facade of car talk and whatnot, but we really do care about helping our fellow man (and woman). Next time the SO gives you a bad time about hacking away on the Net (or the shark), mention how it keeps you in touch with a community, and she (or he) just might get behind the idea.

One more time - you people are the best.

More later ...

Steve