AO

Got the ARM1 installed and took it out for a test drive. The car under normal power ocilates between the middle 3-4 lights maybe slightly to the rich side. Under full thottle it goes to the second to last light on the rich side and while coasting in gear it shifts to the last lean. I think this sounds normal. Well, atleast it looked good to me.

Time to fire off the nitrous...

I think my bottle is pretty much empty from SITM so I'll re-run the test with a full bottle when I get refilled tomorrow. But according to the ARM1 when I hit the magic button it went to the 2nd from last rich light, so I'm definately not running lean.

So now that I pretty much know what's happening inside, I'm ready to try a 100 shot.

I'm still a gutless **** when it comes to anything higher. Maybe after I play witht he 100 shot for a while.

all4woody

Andrew,
The reading on your ARM is correct, the O2 only sends a signal during heavy throttle, and a little while after. The rest of the time it is hunting back and forth, mine is only axciting when it is in time with the music.
Are you running a dry nitros system? Have considered this, but went SC instead.
Good Luck.

bcdavis

Is there such a thing anymore?

Except for racing applications, almost all Nitrous kits are wet kits...

Lagavulin

Have you dyno'd the car yet? Your results would be interesting!

AO

It's a wet system. I'm saving the dyno for after I get the 85-86 manifolds on and replace the cats with a y-pipe unless someone does a dyno day here in Detroit in the next few weeks.

I'm at work now, and have the tank (and Car) with me to get a refill at lunch. The tank actually feels like it still has a few pounds of juice in it which means the run I did last night was good and that the "jets" I'm using are proportioned correctly to give me the right ration of gas to NOS (air).

Tony

Glad you got it hooked up! Youve got some peace of mind now knowing where your mixture is to some degree .

When the time comes, this is what im looking into .
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...NS/NOSzle.html

AO

Better budget some transmission dollars or your run will look like this:
bbbbbBBBBBBwwwwwwwwwaaaaAA *nos* AAAAHHHH *snap* gatagatagatagata

mark kibort

sounds like you are in the right range. the ARM 1 definitely is good for a ball park reading of mixture. the difference between the last two blue lights is like anywhere between 11:1 and 13:1. ive had the mixuture in this range on the dyno and and verified it with the ARM 1. again, you really only care if
1. make sure that cylinder isnt different. so, you need to pull plugs after a full throttle run and take a look, or after you have been using it for a while
2. your not running at 14.7:1 anytime during your NOS run.

because ive already used the system and verified the mixture on the dyno, you should be in fine shape. However, 100hp out of one nosile gets in the ???? range. it probably would be wise to stay in the 75hp range. thats my conservative advice.

One test i used to do was to push the NOS button and not the gas pedal to see if it could keep 50mph speeds going up a slight hill, and it did. also, i would check that mixture as well.
MK

mark kibort

nah, the power comes on pretty mild, is probaby less than when i pound on the gas after my shifts! also remember, you are only talking 335hp, same as my engine without the NOS, and anderson and others have run 420hp to the wheels with stock components and given the trans much more abuse without issues.

Lots of unwarranted concerns over NOS. its probably safer than most mods you can do . too bad most racing orgainzations dont allow it. Only Touring car club racing allows it as far as i know now.

Mk

AO

Thanks Mark. The light stays blue the entire run (thus far). I will pull the plugs and make sure they are all reasonably the same color in the next few weeks. I'll try a 100 shot one of these days and take a conservative approach to it. I agree for "normal" use (that sounds funny) the 75 shot is really nice. It made a big difference on the hill climbs.

Tony, btw, I just had the bottle topped off, and it looks like I only used 6 pounds while in N.C. and you were with me for 80% of it. It's a 10 pound bottle, so that should give you and indication of how long a bottle will last. On a direct injection system like that one you pictured, you'd probably only get 3 or 4 1/4 mile runs on a 10lb bottle. Luckily, they do have 15 and 20 pound bottles, but 10 seems more common.

AO

Mark-

Tony already has a supercharger on that beast. 400+ hp. If he adds 200hp from nitrous, he's looking at 600+ hp. Do we know the limit of the automatic transmissions? I thought people were guessing in the 550hp range. If I'm wrong, then good for Tony!

mark kibort

I think i had written down about 14-16 14 second bursts of 50hp per 10lb bottle. thats 3.2 min of full throttle with NOS!. at $40 a bottle, its not a bad deal, considering 110 octane can cost as much as $8 a gallon at the track!
Since, i usually got all the straights on a 25min race its not a bad deal for an extra 50hp , whereas a more racey engine with 50-75hp running race gas , had to run about $30 more just for the race gas vs my 92 octane 6 gals for the race.

now, when you got to 75hp or even 100hp, obviously, you get less time! (but more fun!)

mk

Tony

trust me it WONT be 200hp shot! 100 max, if im lucky. Besides this is a long ways down the road. I just like the way that system is set up...each cylinder is equally fueled with both nitors and fuel.
You should run it on a dyno Andrew. 3 pulls...1 warm up...one off the bottle..one on.

mark kibort

the dyno was pretty interesting, a true 50ft lbs of torque from the moment the button cam on all the way to redline. (ie 50hp at max hp gain, and about 55ft/lbs of torque) with the 50 shot. mixture was slightly richer than normal operation. (ie 12.2:1 vs 12.6:1)

MK

partstat

Andrew- Put a few nitrous systems in the past year. Last was a 04 vette. He just came back to up the jets to 125 shot. Standard on stock engine in good shape, 20 shot per cylinder without mods. So you should be able to ease on up to the 150 shot range. Same scenario as forced induction. Go with a colder spark plug. Listen for any detonation, and check plugs after each shot change. Single nozzle is o.k. direct port gets a response that split second faster. The kits are cheap but you should run with the add-ons. Bottle warmer- want to keep pressure up around 1000 p.s.i. . Purge- want liquid nitrous entering engine not vapor. Fuel pressure cut off- prevents "dry" shot. W.o.t. switch- if you want to go faster before w.o.t. then you should just be pressing gas pedal to the floor. Blow-down tube on bottle. Usually tell people hit nitrous 2/3 thru gear to relieve stress on driveline. Hits off the line don't make the torque converter last too long. Even with the 50 shot you shoul feel the hit decent. If the bottle was not warm making the pressure too low will make a huge difference. I like the Nitrous Express products better then others. Use loctite on your nitrous fittings, teflon dope tends to leak.

Tony go with a direct port with hard lines even if just for looks. The plastic lines would look cheap on your car. Plus you should be able to use the nitrous intercooler set-up. Let me know if there are any questions I can help with, Ben