Alan

http://www.rallylights.com/SearchRes...?CategoryID=53

You don't need it - a 3 pin H4 socket will fit with the terminal in place.

In any case the city lights aren't wired (nor is the reflector drilled).

To your earlier questions - don't wire direct to the alternator (since its movable with the engine) wire from the Jump post or the ABS jump post (or both). 10AWG feeders are OK from here, they shouldbe fused at the source (jump posts) separata on both feeders. Will you put the relays & fuses in the headlight pods? (I did). Wiring from the relays in the pods can be 12AWG or even 14AWG since its so short.

I would remove the H5 socket - realistically you will never go back, its one more failure point and the H5 sockets are much weaker than H4's - just look at the terminal sizes. Adding an H4 socket + H4 plug to feed the relay coils and another H4 socket from the relays to the bulbs might be an idea - then by taking the pods off you can replug to revert to stock config - bypassing the relays.

Not a bad plan - not what I did - mine is more complicated but achieves the same result of being able to bypass the relays.

I would not use circuit breakers - just use fuses - if there is a problem you want that slngle fuse to blow - no risk of loosing a whole side (e.g. high/low & fogs).

Alan

Alan

If you mean 4 per side total of 8 that makes sense - no way is it 8 per side...

Headlight = 2 (high/low), fog = 1, Aux headlights =1

Alan

blown 87

I was going to use a total of eight circuit breakers at the relays, one for each filament, I would never wire it so one fuse or breaker could take out all the lights.

blown 87

Yes, four per side.

Alan

So - let me be clearer - don't use circuit breakers anyway - use fuses.

Alan

Rob Edwards

Greg, FWIW here's where I am with the H4 headlight wiring for Hebert's car. 12AWG wiring with a waytek fuse holder (30A fuse) , run along the fender to the grommeted pass-thrus that already exist there on each side for the existing headlight wiring. Ground wires terminate at the factory ground points adjacent to the pass-thrus on both sides.

Driver's side, coming off the ABS power supply (It occurs to me that that fuse block is going to be squished by the radiator, or at least hard to get to....




Passenger side, off the jump post. The fuse block is hidden below the plastic baggie:





Power harness:

Alan

Rob - nice plan - but yes that fuseholder location does look a little problematic.

Alan

blown 87

Ok, I will use fuses, but what is the thinking behind that?

blown 87

Looks good Rob, are you doing a adjustable conversion or just a H4 conversion?

Rob Edwards

Just the H4's. Waiting for you guys to blaze a(and document) the trail for electrically adjustable H4's.

Alan

A circuit breaker is more expensive - especially a self resetting one which I assume you are considering here. It takes longer to trip and can therfore allow an issue on one filament supply to blow your main supply fuse for that whole side - bad idea.

If there is a fault that would trip a circuit breaker - you just want that circuit isolated - it won't work properly again until you fix the fault anyway.

Fuses are cheap and easy to change - make sure you use standard ATC/ATO types for this - so you have a good supply of all to hand (same as CE) - perhaps excluding the main supply fuses - since these need to be higher ratings. Looks like Rob may have used maxi fuses there ATX types - a good choice.

Alan

blown 87

Yes, I was going to use a water proff type, but not a big deal either way, my other cars have never blown a fuse, so it should be good.
The only reason I was going to use a breaker is that some cars come from the factory with breakers on the headlamp circuits.
I plan to use standard blade fuses, as I will have spares in the car for them, the maxi fuses can be harder to find when away from the shop.

Got a source for the round wire ends for the motors and adjuster?

Alan

BTW Greg - feed through the firewall - don't go with the CE grommet - go over to the driver side and use the existing grommet under the wiper motor - room there and a straight shot through.

Alan

Alan

I just adapted mine from some crimp on bullet connectors - needed some work but not hard - then I wrapped with heat shrink tubing. Once mated I used a zip tie to keep the feeder well located.

Not as clean as I would like but I couldn't find the correct connectors.

I wish I had asked the salvage yard that provided them to cut off the connectors with a pigtail - I bet they would have done it.

A lack of planning on my part... subsequently I have got lots of crimp on small sized blade females - I'm sure one of these would work also.

see: vehicle-wiring-products or eagleday

Alan

blown 87

That is a good tip, no need to go all the way over to the right except at the front with the adjuster wires.