Stuff Left Before SITM!!
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Borat Impersonator
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Borat Impersonator
Rennlist Member

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,018
Likes: 37
From: St Augustine, FL
Thanks for everyone's input in my previous ball joint question thread https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/205026-side-mouldings-and-ball-joints.html . To anyone doing their own ball joints I strongly recommend that you rent a ball joint puller tool from Pep Boys or buy your own. It will save you time and a lot of cursing. Also, remember to raise and support the lower control arm before you use the ball joint tool. I broke the one I bought probably because I didn't raise the control arm. Here's what I got left to do before I (fingers crossed) leave for SITM!
1. Replace Rear Brake lines & Pads.
2. Bleed brakes. I bought a Mityvac tool with the brake bleeder stuff. is there a good write up for using the mityvac to bleed the brakes? the MV says you dont need a second person. Do you have to unscrew the bleed nipple or just connect and draw vacuum?
3. Replace tranny fluid
4. Alignment and Tires
5. Install rebuilt Fuel Distributor and WUR
6. Paint
7. Replace odometer gear
8. Finish cleaning interior
9. Install stereo and custom box for woofers.
10. Recheck tension on TBelt
11. Drop in coolant
12. Any spare time left will be used to trouble shoot problems.
Am I crazy?? I know I can finish all of those as long as I get the ditributor & WUR back in time to get the car painted. If not, then I don't think I can go.
Wish me luck....
Borys.
1. Replace Rear Brake lines & Pads.
2. Bleed brakes. I bought a Mityvac tool with the brake bleeder stuff. is there a good write up for using the mityvac to bleed the brakes? the MV says you dont need a second person. Do you have to unscrew the bleed nipple or just connect and draw vacuum?
3. Replace tranny fluid
4. Alignment and Tires
5. Install rebuilt Fuel Distributor and WUR
6. Paint
7. Replace odometer gear
8. Finish cleaning interior
9. Install stereo and custom box for woofers.
10. Recheck tension on TBelt
11. Drop in coolant
12. Any spare time left will be used to trouble shoot problems.
Am I crazy?? I know I can finish all of those as long as I get the ditributor & WUR back in time to get the car painted. If not, then I don't think I can go.
Wish me luck....
Borys.
"2. Bleed brakes. I bought a Mityvac tool with the brake bleeder stuff. is there a good write up for using the mityvac to bleed the brakes? the MV says you dont need a second person. Do you have to unscrew the bleed nipple or just connect and draw vacuum? "
There is a small 'catch bottle' that you use with the MV. You conect a piece of tubing to the bleed nipple and the catch bottle, and then use anothe piece of tubing between the bottle and the MV. Just loosen the nipple about a turn. As you draw vac, it pulls the brake fluid to the bottle and the fluid collects in the bottle. It looks like a miniature version of something I used in college chemistry - can't remember the name of the thing (But i DO remember the D I got in Chem!)
The power bleeder sold by 928 Spec (and others, I am sure) is THE BEST WAY! (I've done the mv, too). The power bleeder attaches to the brake fluid reservoir, you pump it up and it 'pushes' the brake fluid out thru the system as you bleed the brakes.
Be sure you start with the brakes FARTHEST from the master cyl. In other words - in this order...pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front.
There is a small 'catch bottle' that you use with the MV. You conect a piece of tubing to the bleed nipple and the catch bottle, and then use anothe piece of tubing between the bottle and the MV. Just loosen the nipple about a turn. As you draw vac, it pulls the brake fluid to the bottle and the fluid collects in the bottle. It looks like a miniature version of something I used in college chemistry - can't remember the name of the thing (But i DO remember the D I got in Chem!)
The power bleeder sold by 928 Spec (and others, I am sure) is THE BEST WAY! (I've done the mv, too). The power bleeder attaches to the brake fluid reservoir, you pump it up and it 'pushes' the brake fluid out thru the system as you bleed the brakes.
Be sure you start with the brakes FARTHEST from the master cyl. In other words - in this order...pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front.

