Airflite40

1. I know that the side mouldings leave large holes in the body panels, but how hard is it to fill those holes? Is it possible for a DIY'er like me to fill and sand them? I want to pull them off before I paint.

2. When removing the nut on top of the ball joints, how did you guys stop the wheel from turning while applying torque? I have tried to remove the nut, but I have a hard time putting force on the wrench with the wheel swinging.

Thanks, Borys.

DoubleNutz

This is not a DIY job for the amateur (not understanding or implying that you are). You must have better than average skills welding skills to weld the thin aluminum in the fenders and be certain you properly seal the interior of the weld becuase aluminum welds are usually porous, so if you do not seal this properly you will get bubbling under the paint when moisture gets into the weld.

AO

For the Ball joint, I believe I used a chunk of 2x2 and levered the upper arm down... or maybe I used a jack from underneath... either way, you need to get some tension on that sucker ortherwise it'll just spin as you're finding out. Once you get enough tension on it, you can tighten to spec without issue.

AO

It was a 2x2. See the manual:

1981 Shark

My PO checked into having the rub strips removed when painted, but the body guy refused to do it and based on the paint job, this guy new what he was doing. Also, based on others' comments regarding removal, I'd think twice. However, this is just my $.02. Good luck!

David

Daniel Dudley

Grinding down, dimpling in the hole and filling with bondo glass or something equivalent would be the old school customizer's trick. it works too, with no welding and no distortion. Not elegant, but it has been done a lot. YMMV

Airflite40

Hmmm.... can you elaborate on this grinding down and dimpling, please? Thanks everyone for their help.

DoubleNutz

Allow me lend my PERSONAL experience to you... this needs to be done properly and the proper way is welded. If you follow the bondo advice above in the thin aluminum of the fenders, you can count on that little bondo'd hole popping out after a few fender flexes a good moisture soaking inside the fender well.

Go ahead and bondo it...you will be doing all over again in a month - trust me!

Airflite40

Thanks guys, I think I'll leave mine on for now....

Back to the ball joints... I got mine loose tonight, but I was unable to get the joint to pop out! I bought one of those press out tools and the bolt that you tighten to press out the joint broke! I have also the fork, and that's not really goin for me either. Any suggestions? I going to get a stronger bolt and try again tomorrow. Borys

DoubleNutz

Great idea...because as the saying saying goes- you never have to take time to do it right the first time but there's always PLENTY of TIME to keep doing it over!

Airflite40

bump for ball joint question

Mark

use the "2 hammer method"....Hold one hammer against one side, and give the other side a good rap....this will distort the hole enough for a moment, to allow the bolt to come out. The forks tend to screw things up on these cars...this ain't your dad's buick!

Rez

True what Mark said. Mine popped out using this approach. Do an archive search for the use of right tools and its placement, as both are critical to getting it to pop.

The only good way to get those holes filled, as mentioned is to find a good welder. Go to a hot rod shop. $200 bucks maybe. Then you can devote your energy to prepping before paint. That's where most money will be saved.