Question about installing valve covers
#1
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm putting my freshly-powdered covers on tonight with new seals. Should I put them on dry or with a light coating of oil...or something else?
#2
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Dave,
I used a thin coat of black RTV silicone on the spark plug hole gaskets, and in the corners for the main gaskets between the head and the gasket. I used permatex gasket adhesive between the cam cover and the gaskets to hold them in place so they would not slip during installation. Worked well, (knock on wood) no leaks. I don't know if this is "correct", but it worked.
Good luck with getting it fired-you must be nervous. I was nervous enough after just a SC install.
Jim R.
I used a thin coat of black RTV silicone on the spark plug hole gaskets, and in the corners for the main gaskets between the head and the gasket. I used permatex gasket adhesive between the cam cover and the gaskets to hold them in place so they would not slip during installation. Worked well, (knock on wood) no leaks. I don't know if this is "correct", but it worked.
Good luck with getting it fired-you must be nervous. I was nervous enough after just a SC install.
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
Jim R.
#3
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've got both Hondabond (aka Yamabond) and the Permatex stuff. I wonder whether the Hondabond would be better since it stays flexible.
#4
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I only used some sealant in the corners like it shows in the manual.
I think i used that Permatex stuff too?
I put them on bone dry and TQ to spec.
No runs..no drips...no errors!
I think i used that Permatex stuff too?
I put them on bone dry and TQ to spec.
No runs..no drips...no errors!
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
#6
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
When my stock ones give up the ghost i have a set of these to go in.
www.cometic.com
As far as i can tell from my records i have 152k on mine...that being said, the stock ones work well. Ive now added boost, so im coutning the days until it lets go. So far so good? (knock on wood)
Gaawd knows what condtion the head surfaces are going to be in though after that period of time.
www.cometic.com
As far as i can tell from my records i have 152k on mine...that being said, the stock ones work well. Ive now added boost, so im coutning the days until it lets go. So far so good? (knock on wood)
Gaawd knows what condtion the head surfaces are going to be in though after that period of time.
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
#7
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Tony
I only used some sealant in the corners like it shows in the manual.
I think i used that Permatex stuff too?
I put them on bone dry and TQ to spec.
No runs..no drips...no errors!![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
I think i used that Permatex stuff too?
I put them on bone dry and TQ to spec.
No runs..no drips...no errors!
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Trending Topics
#10
Intermediate
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Lake Elsinore, California
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Dave,
When I initially took mine off, there was evidence of oil leaks from the cam cover gasket area. Since the car only had about 50K on the clock and was already leaking, I used black RTV sealant on both the cam cover, the rubber gasket and the spark plug seals. Oil leaks gone! The biggest problem however was the oil filler neck base, the O-ring gasket doen't seem to do the job...again, nothing sealant can't fix.
When I initially took mine off, there was evidence of oil leaks from the cam cover gasket area. Since the car only had about 50K on the clock and was already leaking, I used black RTV sealant on both the cam cover, the rubber gasket and the spark plug seals. Oil leaks gone! The biggest problem however was the oil filler neck base, the O-ring gasket doen't seem to do the job...again, nothing sealant can't fix.
#11
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Gone. On the Open Road
Posts: 16,496
Received 1,638 Likes
on
1,069 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I second (third?) the motion for some sort of Perma-snot on the gasket surfaces.
Also, I recommend giving the 26 rubber pressure gaskets a thin coat of lub (I use motor oil since the pressure gaskets get bathed in it anyway) to ensure that when you torque the cam cover bolts that you get a good torque reading. The dry gaskets on dry pressure washers can 'click' the torque wrench with a too-low torque; The bolt torque is very low - 7 ft-libs - so twisting the pressure gaskets can soak up a bit of the torque.
Also, I recommend giving the 26 rubber pressure gaskets a thin coat of lub (I use motor oil since the pressure gaskets get bathed in it anyway) to ensure that when you torque the cam cover bolts that you get a good torque reading. The dry gaskets on dry pressure washers can 'click' the torque wrench with a too-low torque; The bolt torque is very low - 7 ft-libs - so twisting the pressure gaskets can soak up a bit of the torque.