pewter82

I applied Meguiar's #5 Glaze last night, and I'm looking for a even better shine, is it possible to use Rejex on top of a glaze? or do you need to strip the glaze off first?

Jason

AO

Anything is possible... the question is, is it reccommended?
I don't see why not.

Benton

Rejex supposedly makes a bond with the paint, and anything in-between weakens the bond. I wouldn't do it. Search for Rejex on the 993 board sometime last year and you will find a long thread with a lot of information.

AO

Red's statement is correct, except that a glaze is just an ultra-fine buffing compound. When used properly, it should not leave ANY residue. Even Meguiars reccomends that you follow with a high quality wax. So I think you should be fine with Rejex as your "wax".

pewter82

Just spoke with our Rejex rep, and he says no problem going from glaze to rejex...only I should have used 3M products that don't contain silicon, but I should be happy with the results.

AO

Good to know

Ron_H

I used Zymol car soap to wash the crud off of the paint and remove the old wax. Then I used Meguiar's Mirror Glaze to polish the surface. Then I used Rejex. Now when I cover the car, the paint turns cloudy and I must let it sit in the sun for awhile to allow the cloudiness to clear. Also, on the roof, in several places, the clear coat has begun to craze and crack. I need to re-paint the top and hatch now. I don't think I will use Rejex again, thank you.

Once, the Zymol rep told me that the paint needs to breathe and should not be sealed. I had asked why no one had invented a sealer as opposed to continually needing to strip old wax and contaminants stuck in the wax, then polish, then wax again......over and over. He cautioned that they had found no better way to preserve paint. His absolutely cherry '95 Carrera 2 coupe was testament to such a philosophy: it appeared brand new. I wish now that I had listened to that advice, because I fear Zymol may have compromised my paint's ability to breathe and release moisture. I hope I am wrong about it because I fear having a newly painted ($5000 to $7000 paint job more: I wouldn't want to drive it then, having been there done that. My car is a driver.

kshipp

Jason - sounds like you're safe. The main point to remember is to not put Rejex on top of wax. As the wax wears off, the Rejex will wear with it. Rejex needs to adhere to the paint surface to provide it's best protection/use. I've been very happy with it and I continually get acolades for having a shiny-as-new car. Rejex leaves one of the best "wet" appearances I've seen to-date. Here are some pics of my car: http://www.kellyshipp.com/rejex/rejex_pics.html

AO

WTF? Ok...well some people have used Rejex with no problems including yours truly. So the question, Ron, is was it the combination of products you used that caused the problems, or one signle product? Could it be the silicone under the Rejex that caused the problem? Or could the Zymol have something to do with it? Hmmmm...

SharkSkin

Initially, I saw some cloudiness in my paint after applying rejex. it turned out that I had not rubbed it out enough after application and it was excess rejex. Once I rubbed that out, I never had the cloudiness again, and I used to cover my car every night with the same kind of cover that you have, Ron.

Ron_H

Andrew:

That's a good question. I thought Meguiar's was not silicone based, but merely a polish. Dave suggested using denatured alcohol on glass to rid it of silicone. I may try that. It is just about time to strip everything off again and start over because the summer is approaching and I will be on a 7000 mile trip, so I must prep the paint. Endless job it seems. Soon I will have a garage for the shark to keep it out of the sun. Hopefully, that will alleviate some of this concern.

Dave:

How about that denatured alcohol for stripping old wax? I had been using lemon Joy dishwashing soap and also Zymol soap. Maybe I just need to scrub harder. Maybe I left the Rejex on too long before buffing it out.

SharkSkin

I doubt soap will touch it. Barry at x-autoproducts said the stuff should resist most solvents, and the only sure way to get it off is abrade it, like with wax or a polishing compound. I put Rejex on before Sharktoberfest, I've been washing the car regularly with Dawn, and it still has a heck of a shine to it. I have found spots of excess rejex that were on there for days and I was able to buff them out fine.

x-autoproducts

hello all,
i thought i'd jump in to provide some additional information and clarification.

first off, RejeX can be applied on top of glazes. this is based upon my own experience with glaze products and the feedback from lots of RejeX users who also use them.

in response to the post about whether or not applying RejeX on top of glazes is recommended, the answer depends upon what issue you are trying to resolve, or what effect you're trying to achieve in applying the glaze in the first place.

glazes will help clean & condition the paint, and can help provide for a higher degree of wet-looking shine. most glazes (such as 3M's Imperial Hand Glaze) have no abrasives. it's designed to do a couple of things, 1) condition the paint with special ingredients and 2) remove very slight stains from the paint that its solvent content will get off. if your paint has swirls, scratches or oxidation, then you need to use something designed to remove these issues such as 3M's Swirl Mark Remover. this product has a very fine abrasive and will remove or fill fine scratches, swirls, etching marks & oxidation.

however, neither of these products provide any protection from UV, acids or chemicals that can damage your paint. that's why you MUST follow glazes or compounds with a wax or a sealant like RejeX. RejeX has no abrasives and should not be applied to paint with any oxidation as it cannot remove it and will not give you the desired results. if your paint does have oxidation, then you need to use something with an abrasive to get it off before you apply the RejeX. RejeX will not restore old, thin or damaged paint. it's designed to protect paint in good condition.

it's true that you shouldn't put RejeX on top of wax as wax is not a very durable base for RejeX to adhere to. also, you shouldn't wax over RejeX as the abrasives in the wax will scrub the RejeX right back off.

as for paint needing to breathe, yes, new paint should not be waxed or "sealed" until several weeks have passed to let the solvents in the paint dissapate. however, once this has happened, then you must provide protection for the paint with waxes or sealants in order to protect it and ensure long paint life. having said that, there are products that contain things that can lead to undesired results (like silicone contamination), so you need to be sure about the contents of what you're using on your car. if you use meguair's products, then you should call their tech line at 800-347-5700 (www.meguiars.com) and ask them if the product you're using has any silicone in it (it probably does).

as for RejeX, it contains nothing that can lead to paint damage of any kind. it has a proprietary silioxane which does not absorb into the paint layers. the cloudiness is from having incompatible products on your car and can easily be removed with a product like the 3M Swirl Mark Remover mentioned above.

also, to address the comments regarding soaps and denatured, the response is correct. RejeX will not be stripped off using Dawn or any other car wash soap. it will also not be stripped off using denatured alcohol.

Ron_H - please give me a call at 800-559-1192 to discuss your issue....

one more response about the comment regarding leaving RejeX on too long...
the best way to get the most out of a RejeX application is to apply it in a thin, even layer. let it stay on 10-20 minutes, then wipe it off completely. the more you wipe it, the more shiney is gets and the more slippery it becomes. if you apply it in a thick layer, or let it cure before wiping it off, then your results are not going to be optimal.

if anyone has any questions, please don't hesitate to call.
thanks all - sorry for the long post.
best regards,
barry
X-Auto Products
800-559-1192
www.x-autoproducts.com

kshipp

Dave and Barry are correct. In my experience with RejeX, the more I buff, the more it shines. I usually put one thin coat of RejeX on, buff, let it cure overnight, then I wait about a week and put a second coat on. The paint shines more and looks deeper after the second coat. It's extremely slick after the second coat - aside from "looking" wet, it "feels" wet! My father also uses RejeX on his 1986.5 928S and it looks fantastic, even though some areas need some paint improvements, the glossy shine hides the imperfections at 10 yards away.

I've noticed that some shops use the Porsche bumper covers that will leave a cloudy "mess" on your finish. I'm not sure what they leave behind, but you'll need to use your favorite non-abrasive spray (or water) and buff for a few minutes to clear-up the clouds they leave behind.

AO

Now there's a man who believes in his product! Whether you believe Barry or not, you've certainly got to admire his willingness to discuss potential issues with this stuff. Kudos to Barry.