deliriousga

I've removed the circlip from the inner CV joint on the driver's side but can't get the joint to come off. I've popped it a couple of times with a rubber hammer but no go. I also tried a puller but mine was too small so the claws pull away.

I'm thinking about getting a free rental puller that's bigger to try Monday, but I'm wondering if it would be easier to pull off the outer joint. The write-up I'm using has two joints with the 6 allen bolts, not a big axel bolt going through the outer joint.

Does anybody have a good write-up on taking the outer CV joint off when it's the type without the 6 allen bolts?

I just need to get one side off so I can clean everything up and put the new boots on so any help is very much appreciated.

SharkSkin

John, I think the later units have the spline welded on over the circlip. you may be SOL. Try the PB Blaster on the splines -- after all you are going to throughly clean and re-lube the joint right? If you don't plan to clean out the CV itself, then I can see why you wouldn't want to spray penetrant in there. Also, you don't want to pound on it which could dent the CV races or flatten the *****.

Try this, using a tie-down strap(chain would be better), a pry bar, and a bench vise. Open the vise just enough to drop the halfshaft down through the jaws. Hopefully the jaws will support the CV by the inner portion. Take your strap or loop of chain and loop it around the tail of the vise. Put the end of your prybar into the loop; the prybar should pass over the CV and press down on the end of the halfshaft. Now, hang off the end of the prybar. The effectiveness of this will depend on the strength of the various bits you cobble together. If that doesn't do it, get a puller.

HTH

Garth S

John,
Once you get this rigged up and in position to 'hang' , we'd appreciate it if you could convince your '1966 Wife White/Brown Top' to snap a pic to post in this thread. Don't know about the rest of you, but it would sure make my day.
Good luck

I have only repacked the CV's on my 4x4. They took some back and forth tapping with a brass faced hammer to release - it seemed to be an issue of correct alignment more than brute force.
I have seen mechanics vetically raise the half shaft - and pile drive the end into a slab of plank: the momentum releases the joint ... perhaps a last resort ..

deliriousga

That's what it looks like on the outer CV Joint. I don't see a way to get it off of there.

I think I'm going to go ahead and try the free puller first. I'm not so sure I could get this right.

So if the outer joint doesn't come off, how do you clean it out? That's the joint that had the torn boot so I want to make sure all of the dust is out.

deliriousga

I'm sure she'd love to do that. She joined me in the timing belt dance!

SharkSkin

Hey, where's your sense of adventure? Cleaning that joint is something that will be a bit of a trick. If you're lucky, you'll be able to scrape away any dirty grease and be left with a clean enough assembly that you can pack in some fresh grease. Ideally you would want to catch this problem before it really gets any dirt in there, because I'm not sure you could clean it out 100% even with a solvent tank. Maybe you could if you soak & flush repeatedly over an extended time period. If it's really dirty in there the best solution might be just to replace the halfshaft... $$$.

deliriousga

We're leaving in two weeks for Miami to catch a cruise. I'll have the adventure there, no time for it right now as I need to put the speaker in the passenger door, do the boots on the other axel, insulate my center console until I can do the motor mounts and fix the passenger seat (or at least get it all the way back) before we leave. Makes an interesting scenario though.

As far as cleaning the outer joint, can I spray brake/CV joint cleaner into it to try and get everything out after I scrape? I had planned on replacing these boots before they split, but happened to get the split in the last month or two since I checked them and bought the boots. The inner one actually looks like it has been replaced before, but I'm starting at zero with all of them.

Thanks for the great info!

Garth S

there's ~ 5# more thick moly grease in these joints than any sane man would guess - so Dave's comment on a solvent wash stand is a good one: know any friendly garages ... ? If not, a pail and a couple of gallons of cheap mineral spirits/paint thinner and a stubby brush will work - then use the brake cleaner and air line when you get down to shiny metal . The cleaner, the better ....

SharkSkin

If you put any kind of cleaner or solvent in there and don't get it squeaky clean after that, you run the risk of leaving sub-par(partially dissolved) grease in the joint. Another approach would be to get one of those long needle-like grease gun tips designed for CV joints. You put the needle in past the joint so it's releasing the grease on the otherwise inaccessible spline side of the joint. Theoretically, if you pump enough grease in there, it will force the old grease out toward the boot side of the joint where you can wipe it away with a rag. You would get the best results from this approach with a pneumatic grease gun, because it pumps the grease in pretty quickly. You might be able to take it to a suspension shop which could do this part of the job for you.

deliriousga

I can't believe this stuff!! A mechanic that doesn't put any type of anti-seize on the splines? The inner boot was replaced before and when they put the joint back on they didn't use anti-seize, much less Porsche moly grease. It's soaking in PB Blaster with the puller on it, just hoping it will pull loose after awhile. Man this is aggrivating!

SharkSkin

If you want a job done right....

Steve J.

You won't be able to take the CV joint apart unless you remove it from the axle. The easiest for me was to push the axle out with a hydraulic press. Without a press, you can hammer the axle out with an aluminum or brass drift while held in a vise, or pry the joint off with a puller. I used a split aluminum block as a clamp. With the welded end, you'll just have to do the best you can with a bucket, solvent, brush and compressed air. I made a nozzle to go on the end of the tube of grease. Follow the procedures in the WSM, pages 42-19 through 42-27.

deliriousga

The puller got it to move about 1/16" last night so I sprayed more PB Blaster and let it pull overnight but it didn't budge.

My last ditch effort today. I called a friend who has an auto shop (and all of these tools everyone is talking about) and I'm taking it by today at lunch to see if they can get the darn thing off. When I talked to him he said there may be a clip inside that is keeping it in and mentioned the brass drift idea. Is there a clip inside I don't know about so it needs to be whacked to get it off the axle? That may be my problem because I've been scared to whack at it for fear of tearing the inside cover up.

GlenL

Even if you get it off, do you think it is useable? Those splines are supposed to move freely.

SharkSkin

There should be only one circlip holding it on there... pic below.