Power mirror controls
05-12-2005, 10:49 AM
#16
Rennlist Member
Section 72-17 in the WSM thoroughly covers the plug assignment in the control computer that Jim mentioned, as well as the procedure for testing each pin with a voltmeter. Maybe try spraying the connections with cleaner and reseating the harness a couple of times might clear it up.
05-12-2005, 11:49 AM
#17
Electron Wrangler
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Peter,
Just above & to right of the hood release above & left of deadpedal. its a rectangular box with 2 circular ears sticking out that are bolted to the side panel.
There are some test procedures for it in the FWM.
I have a spare that appears to be a in perfect working condition - let me know if you need, I'd be willing to let you try it out for shipping if you want... I tried this to fix an issue but it wasn't the cause! We'd need to check the module is the same - but I don't think they changed between 90 - 94 Mine is a #928 618 136 01
I'd suspect you more likely have a wiring/connector/switch/motor issue though.
BTW this poisition is a PITA (or back) to work on.
Alan
Just above & to right of the hood release above & left of deadpedal. its a rectangular box with 2 circular ears sticking out that are bolted to the side panel.
There are some test procedures for it in the FWM.
I have a spare that appears to be a in perfect working condition - let me know if you need, I'd be willing to let you try it out for shipping if you want... I tried this to fix an issue but it wasn't the cause! We'd need to check the module is the same - but I don't think they changed between 90 - 94 Mine is a #928 618 136 01
I'd suspect you more likely have a wiring/connector/switch/motor issue though.
BTW this poisition is a PITA (or back) to work on.
Alan
05-12-2005, 05:09 PM
#18
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Hi Alan,
thanks for the information and the very generous offer.
Will check my unit first and go trough the different connections.
Will travel the next two weeks so it will be a while before I can get to it.
But it is good to know you got one in workin order.
I will PM you if that turns out to be the culprit.
Many thanks/Peter
thanks for the information and the very generous offer.
Will check my unit first and go trough the different connections.
Will travel the next two weeks so it will be a while before I can get to it.
But it is good to know you got one in workin order.
I will PM you if that turns out to be the culprit.
Many thanks/Peter
05-12-2005, 06:26 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
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To ease working under the dash...
Buy an 8' 1"x12" board - costs less than $10 in Georgia. Get a piece of firm foam rubber, carpet, or something similar that is about 1' x 2' x 1" or so.
Attach the padding long-ways to the face at one end of the board.
Open the door, lay the board gently on the door sill, with the padding on the contact area. Hold the board level, and measure from the bottom of the board to the floor.
Cut that much off of the end of the board that does not have the padding. Glue and screw the cut-off section to the bottom of the board at the end where you cut it off, on the same side as the foam. This joint needs to be sturdy, so you might want to brace it with small blocks of wood, angle brackets, etc. You should now have a large "L", with padding on the straight end.
Set the straight end on the door sill, the other end on the floor or driveway, and lay down on the job...
Be careful to avoid tipping sideways - if this looks like a problem, you can add a small board across the end for stability.
If you want the deluxe version, you can use hinges and detachable angled braces so that you can fold it flat for better storage, and you can pad the upper surface for comfort.
Buy an 8' 1"x12" board - costs less than $10 in Georgia. Get a piece of firm foam rubber, carpet, or something similar that is about 1' x 2' x 1" or so.
Attach the padding long-ways to the face at one end of the board.
Open the door, lay the board gently on the door sill, with the padding on the contact area. Hold the board level, and measure from the bottom of the board to the floor.
Cut that much off of the end of the board that does not have the padding. Glue and screw the cut-off section to the bottom of the board at the end where you cut it off, on the same side as the foam. This joint needs to be sturdy, so you might want to brace it with small blocks of wood, angle brackets, etc. You should now have a large "L", with padding on the straight end.
Set the straight end on the door sill, the other end on the floor or driveway, and lay down on the job...
Be careful to avoid tipping sideways - if this looks like a problem, you can add a small board across the end for stability.
If you want the deluxe version, you can use hinges and detachable angled braces so that you can fold it flat for better storage, and you can pad the upper surface for comfort.
05-12-2005, 07:18 PM
#21
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Wally,
Yes - now that's what I needed to build - & next time I will!
I must be getting too old to be twisting up like that...
ouch! Just thinking about it hurts!
Incidentally taking the seats out also makes it much easier (eventually I did this) - but its a bit drastic - it just happened I needed to do that at more or less the same time.
But then I needed to order some new seat bolts... and so it goes on
Alan
Yes - now that's what I needed to build - & next time I will!
I must be getting too old to be twisting up like that...
ouch! Just thinking about it hurts!
Incidentally taking the seats out also makes it much easier (eventually I did this) - but its a bit drastic - it just happened I needed to do that at more or less the same time.
But then I needed to order some new seat bolts... and so it goes on
Alan