tomboyea123

My car was running perfectly before I touched it .I completed building the air to water intercooler,ran all the lines, installed the heat exchanger,installed the water circulation pump,found a hot wire that was hot only when the key was on,Checked over everything 3 times to make sure it was correct.Closed the hood to make sure that there was no clearance problems.Installed the 30 lbs injectors,checked the water circulation for leaks.Put on the smaller pulley,Gave myself a big pat on the back and decided to take her out and do some tunning with my air fuel gadge and my adjustable fmu.Started it up and it sounded like ***.Obviously not running on all cylinders.Checked the intercooler for leaks Ok, took off the hot wire to the circulation pump, checked the injectors,started it up normally asperated. Still ran the same .What did I do ?Pulled the coil wire of of the passenger side and the car would not start. Put it back on and took the coil off of the drivers side and the car started and ran the same as before.The coil on the drivers side was not hot.Took it of while the car was running and it ran the same.Checked the fuse pannel and found that there are not any fuses for each individual coil.Please help me solve the mystery as to what I have done before my wife says I told you so!Thanks lot in advance!

mspiegle

Well, 2 separate ignition signals go from the EZ to each of the 2 ign modules in front of the car, then to the 2 coils. Maybe you can start from the EZ and see where the signal stops? Have you tried unplugging the battery just for the hell of it?

Adam C

Sounds like you need a new coil. Like $75.

Shane

Check them doodads in front of the radiator. What do they call em "final stages" or something.

Gretch

search under "4 cylinder mode" and the like for threads that explain how to diagnose some specific ignition problems. There is a way to see if the ignition computer has shut down one of the coils.

Did you check both ends of the primary coil wire?

Be careful tinkering with the coil, it has enough power to kill you, dead. Do not use the standard shade tree methods to see if it is good. repeat: it can kill you.

Take more time with your posts, they will make more sense and we can be more helpful.

Consider joining rennlist (yeah, I know I am gonna take some **** about this..., but it has been money extremely well spent for me, so the suggestion is made in good faith)

Shane

Lot of good tips in this thread-->Four cylinder mode?

FBIII

If you suspect it might be a coil, why not swap them and see if the problem follows the coil.
Fred

tomboyea123

Wow,thanks for the help.I think that the car has gone into a limp home mode and is running on 4 cylinders.I will try to solve the problem when I get home.

Imo000

Check the wire that you used to run the water pump. Make sure it's not the same wire that feeds the coil the +12V. If it's the same wire, it's possible that you are draining too much power off and the coil can't get enough power to charge.

Gretch

BTW, is this a Supershark kit?

tomboyea123

No ,the murf kit came out days after I paid for my f.a.s.t kit.Took a little sorting out to make it right but it really transforms the car to a rocketship.I am installing a modified syclone intercooler and a b&m transmission cooler for my heat exchanger along with a 12v jasco waterpump.I am hoping to move the power level a little north of its present dyno numbers, if I can figure out what I did to get it to run on 4 cylinders

Gretch

So, what did you use for the 12 volt source for the pump?, (as previously asked by another 'lister).

tomboyea123

I used what i have now found out is one of the control moduels(One of two 6x2 inch boxes in front of the radiator).Before I left this morning,I took the connection off and this did not restore the car to its properly working condition.I am going to try to disconnect the battery to see if that will solve the problem.It was stated in the 4 cylinder mode that a green light will show up on the fuse panel if it is in limp home mode and I am going to check this out also.I feel that getting my power source from this box is the problem.I might just need to reset the system somehow. It was sugested that I switch the connections to the two control moduel boxes to see if the light turns red . I will also switch coils to see if one is bad.

Bill Ball

The ignition monitoring system that trips 4 cyl mode should reset on turning the ignition off unless it sees a contuinuing fault. It relies on a differnce between two temperature sensors mounted near the rear of the exhaust manifolds. The sensors or the wries to them can be faulty. As discussed in the other thread linked previously, the relay for this monitoring system can be jumped to override it. If neither the red or green LEDs on the relay are glowing, then this isn't the problem.

GoRideSno

Tom,
The fact that you messed with one of the "exciters" little boxes in front of the radiator sounds to be the cause of the problem.
I would disconnect the 12V lead from it.
See which cylinders are firing and which not.
Swap the connectors on the "exciters" and see which cylinders are firing and not. If the firing cylinders change then this will indicate that the "exciter" has gone bad.

You can run your 12v lead throught the O2 sensor hole and then use a wire splice to splice it into the power source for the windows in the fuse box. The IC pump will be switched by the window relay and will run as long as the door is un-opened after the ignition is off. Use a fuse. The splice the power for your A/F meter into the 12v lead going to the pump. If the A/F meter goes out then you'll know the fuse for the pump is blown and not to race that RS6 through Eisenhower tunnel.

Enjoy your new found power and get us some 0-60 and 1/4th mi times. You and FAST still hold the SCed GT power record BTW. 517rwhp for those that don't know.

Andy K