tomboyea123

Thinking back, I think I should have ran a wire through the sensor hole instead of finding a source of power up front.I think i chose the worst area to find out a power source! Im going to roll up my sleeves and see what iv destroyed. Thanks for all of the help, advice and kind words.

tomboyea123

Also, where should I look for the glowing red or green lights?

Imo000

If possible, do not use wire splicers as a method of connection. Always solder and shrink tube the connectors. Wire splicers should only be used as a temporaty fix.

Bill Ball

The relay with its LEDs is between the EZK brain and the central electrical panel. So you have to have the carpet up to see it.

tomboyea123

ok ,this is the latest development on the mystery limp home occurance.....nothing...I pulled one coil lead off, found it was hot.pulled the other off and it was not. figured it was a bad coil.I then changed the coils from side to side to make sure.Same thing happened on the same side of the car.Ok so I swaped the wires from one exciter box to the other(2x6 boxes in front of the radiator) and found that both exiter boxes were good but one of the two wiring harness was bad.( I switched the good wiring harness to both exiter boxes and it ran the same and the same cylinders fired ).I then looked at the wiring harness that was bad and found that one of the wires was freyed a bit but not cut through where I had spliced the intercooler into .I then cut the wire and conected it back together with a wire connector and the taped it up with electrical tape. This led to no improvement.Could the wire connector be changing the resistance thus causing the limp home mode or am I going in the wrong direction?would it help if I sodered the wire instead? Thanks

Jim R.

Try solder and shrink wrap on the repair. It will be a better connection and fix. If that doesn't fix it, then:
The limp home mode should give you 30 seconds of smooth running before kicking in if it is a temp sensor or relay. Maybe get the test relay(do you have cats?) to bypass the system for troubleshooting. Then check the rest of the plug wires, injectors, exhaust temp sensors by switching them side to side as needed. It has to be an easy fix, something you loosened or moved while working on the intercooler, etc.

Jim R.

tomboyea123

Thanks for the advice .I have ordered the test relay and I have soildered the wire.Hopefully the relay will clear it up.Also Ifound an unpluged wire beside the relay with the green led light(It has female connections with 3 holes in it but two that have metal in them) but cant find a male connector to put it in.It looks like a factory plug. Thanks

mspiegle

wait a sec... i didn't quite follow. So, you know one of the wiring harnesses are bad, so the ignition module isn't working properly. You're going to install a test relay to bypass the very safety feature that is keeping you from destroying/burning your cats? Dumping fuel into the cats isn't a good idea...

Bill Ball

Agreed. Jumping or replacing that monitoring relay with a test relay makes no sense. You have no evidence it was even tripped (no LEDs). The relay controls fuel delivery. You don't have a fuel problem. You have an ignition problem. The test relay won't help that and it is hazardous, as Mike mentions, when the igntion is not working on one bank.

tomboyea123

I checked and I am getting a green light. I also have no cats in my exhaust.

Jim_H

My green light went off on the way to SF. I bypassed it and it ran great. The manuals actually tell you how to bypass limp home for cars with no cats.

Jim_H

That plug goes nowhere so don't waste time looking for its mate.

Bill Ball

OK, no cats, so no great hazard if you jump or replace the relay with a test relay. Because your ignition is not working, the LED is lit. The green light tells you it is the ignition for cylinders 2,3,5,8. That would be the driver side coil (car's left), IIRC.

tomboyea123

Thanks for the advice on the plug going no where.I tryed the jumper idea with the led fuse out this morning and it was still running on 4 cylinders..I will check and see if the harness that is going to the control modual is hot with a probe light.If the wire is hot, maybe the control modual is bad.

Tim Murphy

I'm going to take a guess that you have a bad injector.

Since you are in 4 cylinder mode you have 2 things going on:
1.) no spark on 4 cylinders
2.) no fuel on 4 injectors via no pulse signal (I assume there are 2 injector drivers)
The common denominator here is that you changed the injectors and then experienced the problem.
You might have a bad injector or you may have short circuited one of the injector wires.

To check for a bad injector, pull off one injector plug at a time (of the suspect injectors) and see if it starts to run on 7 cylinders.

To check for a shorted wire, disconnect all injector plugs and test for 12v at both pins with the ignition on. If you have 12v at both pins, you have wires touching somewhere. Keep in mind that you will see 12v at both pins with the injector plugs connected because the injector coil will conduct across itself.

Another test would be to disconnect all injector plugs. Then figure out which side of the injector plug is positive by taking a test light between one of the pins and ground. Then connect one injector that you know is good. From one of the disconnected plugs, connect the non12v pin to ground and you should hear the injector click. This would mimic the way the LH pulses the injector. Check each plug, one at a time, by touching the non-12v pin to ground and verify that you can fire the test injector. If you make it through all the plugs and you can fire the test injector then connect one injector at a time and perform the same test until you find the bad injector.

Good luck!