Question about changing connector rod bearings
#16
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
"Dave, slip short pieces of hose over the rod stud threads when you remove the caps to keep from nicking the crank."
I was just about to say the same thing. It is very easy to damage the bearing surface during the piston insertion.
Cleaining the mating surfaces on the connecting rods with a steel whool is a good idea too. Since the crank shaft is not being re ground, the existing clearance will be more than adequate. I don't think there is a need to plastigauge the bearings in this case.
Don't forget to mark each cap. They have to go back on the same way they came off each rod. Do NOT mix up the orientation of the caps on the rods. They are not symetrical.
Also, once the bottom and the top end is assembled, but prior to T-belt install, prime the oil pump. It will lubricate all the bearings. Use a socket and an air rachet or an electric drill to spin (prime) the oil system.
I was just about to say the same thing. It is very easy to damage the bearing surface during the piston insertion.
Cleaining the mating surfaces on the connecting rods with a steel whool is a good idea too. Since the crank shaft is not being re ground, the existing clearance will be more than adequate. I don't think there is a need to plastigauge the bearings in this case.
Don't forget to mark each cap. They have to go back on the same way they came off each rod. Do NOT mix up the orientation of the caps on the rods. They are not symetrical.
Also, once the bottom and the top end is assembled, but prior to T-belt install, prime the oil pump. It will lubricate all the bearings. Use a socket and an air rachet or an electric drill to spin (prime) the oil system.