jyoon

I need to get my windows closed (they rolled down but won't go up) and i suspect it's the window relay. I was wondering if there is another relay in the car that is the same as the window relay that i can use temporarily to close the windows. car is an 84 euro. thanks.

Jim bailey - 928 International

could be if the car had factory alarm then the relay is one marked 53 which is used also as a horn relay .....also try pushing on the switch quickly in the down position use two fingers then immediatety roll from the down position to the up position using the second of the two fingers. The quick reversal of the polarity to the motor will sometimes be enough to get the motor to run in the up direction....some times.

Thaddeus

Why is everybody suddenly having issues with the power windows?

Alan

Thaddeus,
Umm... may be nothing to do with the window failure rate.... but it is warming up - so its time to discover if they still work?

Of course it works the reverse in Phoenix - pretty soon my windows will close for the rest of the summer!!

Alan

BrianG

Dollars to donuts it's the window switches.

Try pressing down VERY firmly on the switch and rocking your finger cross-wise while holding the pressure. If this gets even a "spurt" of window motor activity, it's that flakey switch.

Don't even screw with it.... the contact points burn down on them. Replace them.

jyoon

yep, briang is correct. did a search on it yesterday and tried it today. had to push really hard. is it easy to repair these switches, or is it another $50 out of my retirement fund?

kaptnknemo

I just replaced my window switches with a set or surplus automotive relays from All Ellectronics (www.allelectronics.com) and some free sample switches from ITW. So far so good, the switches are a lot smaller, so I still have to make a new switch plate.

John Krawczyk

My passenger side wont go down. Need to fix that...

Tony

http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/windowSW.htm

this is what i did. HTH

BrianG

I did the fix that Tony's link shows. It worked for about 3-4 months....... until the switch contacts burned down too far. I think those contacts, like old ignition contacts, are "surfaced" with something stronger than the base material, and once burned past, the remaining material burns much faster.

The one thing I did think might help for the new switches, is to set a capacitor across the contacts to ease the spark-load. I'm just no sure what value of cap. to use....