Shock threaded sleeve seized - help!
#1
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I disassembled the rear Boge gas shocks on the S4 - and made great speed until I tried to remove the adjuster threaded sleeve: the aluminium piece is 'welded' to the shock body, and shows no signs of letting go. It has soaked in Kroil penetrant, been lightly heated, beat on with a wood block, and has not moved. Too much force and the aluminium will deform.
Short of hacksawing the shock apart and cutting the tube piece out of the sleeve, is there a technique that works??
It's not that big a deal to order new ones - it's the 2 week wait that's a killer - and the sunshine says winter hibernation is over: time to get on the road ...
Short of hacksawing the shock apart and cutting the tube piece out of the sleeve, is there a technique that works??
It's not that big a deal to order new ones - it's the 2 week wait that's a killer - and the sunshine says winter hibernation is over: time to get on the road ...
#2
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Actually, cutting the shock in half right above the adjuster is the ticket. Once you've done that, mangling the shock inside the adjuster is pretty straight forward, it will eventually come off.
#5
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Like they say, "A man with an angle grinder is truly blessed".....as long as you need the adjuster more than the shock! In my case it was the reverse - I needed the shock for reco more than the adjuster.
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#7
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Angle grinders? You guys are too funny
- I'm thinking of the pressurized oil meeting the cutting disc ..
besides, my angle gringer won't fit inside the sleeve to cut the tube remains out
,,,
OK, I give up - hacksaw and angle grinder it is! Maybe I'll relieve the pressure and drain the oil first ....
Thanks
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OK, I give up - hacksaw and angle grinder it is! Maybe I'll relieve the pressure and drain the oil first ....
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#8
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Hi,
Did this just before Xmas, don't envy you.
I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the shock, relieving pressure. Then cut of the body with an angle grinder. I tried to deform the shock to get the sleeve of but no luck so I ground of the rest of the shockto just above and below the sleeve. Ground out 2 small grooves close to each other with a minuture disk and file, so that I could peel out a sliver of the shock body this allowed me to release the body from the sleeve. About 1.5 hrs of messing around.
Good luck.
Did this just before Xmas, don't envy you.
I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the shock, relieving pressure. Then cut of the body with an angle grinder. I tried to deform the shock to get the sleeve of but no luck so I ground of the rest of the shockto just above and below the sleeve. Ground out 2 small grooves close to each other with a minuture disk and file, so that I could peel out a sliver of the shock body this allowed me to release the body from the sleeve. About 1.5 hrs of messing around.
Good luck.
#9
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Ahaa - sweet success! I used a coarse tooth hacksaw blade and zipped the bottom eye off flush with the sleeve, releasing gas and oil - repeated at the top side leaving 1/2" to drive the remnants out through the bottom. Reassembled the hacksaw inside the cylinder, and made a single cut down the length of the tube. A twist to curl it inwards, and a blow to drop it out the bottom. Two perfect sleeves ready to go - ~1/2 hr.
I was trying to save the Boge rears for a buddy, so I was reluctant to go the saw route. Now, I will bag up all the pieces, add a quart of light oil, and offer him a DIY shock kit ....
I was trying to save the Boge rears for a buddy, so I was reluctant to go the saw route. Now, I will bag up all the pieces, add a quart of light oil, and offer him a DIY shock kit ....
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#10
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That is cold, man.................
#13
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Originally Posted by ErnestSw
Your buddy wouldn't, by any chance, be a Newfie, would he?
How much for the kit?
How much for the kit?
#15
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try try try....please before cutting, spray it with PB Blaster, GENEROUSLY. Usually a good shower in that will unseize lots of components. It worked on my threads.