Glenn M

88 S4 Auto. I put the new timing belt on and can't rotate the engine to check it out it will not move. I can't see anything interfering to keep it from turning. I replaced the water pump, both cam gears, rebuilt the tensioner, replaced both rollers. Timing at 45 degrees. Marked the new Cam gears like the old and installed. I did have to rotate them CCW when the sprung CW. Right cam gear is 1/2 a tooth off from mark (was originally off by 1/2 a tooth so it should now be correct). Left cam gear is 1/8 of tooth from 45 degree mark. I also removed and cleaned the rotor trim behind the right cam gear. The flywheel lock was removed and car in park. The oil pump and water pump turned freely before putting the belt on. Just pulled the plugs out.

I also replaced the pan gasket and installed the GTS baffle and the motor mounts were replaced. When I installed the oil level sensor back in the pan the arm runs toward the rear of the engine. Is this the proper position?

I've run out of ideas.
Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Mike LaBranche

Pull the sparkplugs but shouldn't be required. It should turn over by hand with a big socket on the crank bolt. Are you _sure_ the belt is routed correctly?

Glenn M

I pulled the plugs and have checked the routing and it looks fine. Used Pirtle's writeup.

Glenn M

I pulled the plugs and have checked the routing and it looks fine. Used Pirtle's writeup.

TAREK

that may sound stupid...but hey you never know...is there a chance you forgot to remove the flywheel lock tool ?

Glenn M

Removed it, doesn't make a difference. I will try putting the car in neutral. I had checked the crank end play last week and it looked fine. I don't see why this would make a difference.

docmirror

With new gears, and belt routed correctly, you should seen NO "tooth off" on either timing mark. I'm concerned right now. On the 88 engine, at 45 degrees, threre should be no way to interfere with the valves. Thats the reason for the rotation to 45. Now, in another section of the post, you mention taking the pan off and inserting a baffle. I know, it's not supposed to interfere with the crank, but,,,,can we check it? That means pulling the pan again.

Pelease describe the inability to turn better. Are you using a big socket on the front of the crank? Will it jog CCW? Will it jog CW? Does it feel like binding? Is it locked up very solid? If it's solid and won't move a bit, I would investigate the baffle in the pan. If it jogs a bit, I think it's time to take the belt back off and try jogging the crank a bit without driving the cams, WP, etc.

With the belt off, the crank will move freely at least 15 degrees. I have seen a timing mark on the block set backwards. The red timing mark should be close to the center of the block, not close to the oil gear. If the belt is off, and the binding is still there, it's surely the baffle.

Glenn M

I just removed the belt. The crank only turns a few degrees. I can hear the crank clunking against something! This stinks! Looks like the GTS baffle is hitting. I don't understand, I found a picture and installed like it was. It only seemed to go in one way on the rear side half of the deep part of the pan.

Glenn M

I installed the GTS baffle as in the link below.

http://users.easystreet.com/carolgwo...l#GTS%20baffle

Richard S

The picture in the link doesn't look quite right, like maybe it is in up-side down. It's been awhile since I installed mine, so I could be mistaken.

Rich

docmirror

Crank clanking, isn't correct operation. Take it apart. Sorry,,,,

goodspeed928

Call greg goodspeed at 8604447776

Glenn M

Did I mention I got a used flexplate cover because mine had a gouge and was cracked. Well the used cover must have been from a 5 spd or early auto. When installed there was an extra rib pressing against the flywheel! Dropped the cover and the flywheel turned! Timing belt back on and is perfect, all marks line up at TDC. Glad I didn't drop the pan again! Would have had to scrape all the Yamabond off. Looks like I just need to grind the rib and I will be good to go.

Thanks!

docmirror

Uh, ho, that's no where I've seen. Glad to hear it's up and running.

Glenn M

I will get the car finished by next weekend. Doesn't look the the cover will work. The indent for the starter nose is not as deep. I will call 928 Int tomorrow about the cover.

I'm worried about the tensioner being adjusted too tight again. It is screwed in pretty far to get the tool in the window. I have the Kemph tool and have used it twice since owning the car (15k, 2 yrs). The reason I changed the belt and cam gears is that the belt was shredding and gears were worn. After I got the car the TB light came on so I adjusted it then with 70K on it. At that point it had 15K since changed (55k), It now had 30K on the belt and pump. The belt had been changed 5k before that (50K). I don't know if my tool might be off or the damage was done before. The worn gears may have caused the last belt to shred. I don't want to go thru this again anytime soon.