Did they skip it in 79? My 78 has one.... why would the 79 not have one?

 

Dave, interesting, my 79 did not have one. Jim Bailey already kicked my a$$ 15 different ways from sunday (Jim: ) because he says they do have 'em. Bottom line is Klim says he doesn't have a cooler.

 

Thanks a lot guys. This is encouraging.
I will do that new pressore check tomorrow, then, if everything is good, put oil into the cylinders and try to turn the engine by hand.
I will write with any news.

To Heinrich:
Yes, I do know that new engine doesn't cost a lot. But one part of why I bought this car last summer was that it had 15000 original miles. I know, nobody believes that, but if you look at engine from beneath or from the top it looks pretty clean. So, it is quite a disgrace to sell. But, well, I will do what i got to do

Thanks to all again,

Klim

 

Are we all missing the obvious? FL car, brownish water in the block and radiator? Klim bought it not running? Hasn't run about a year? Hello? Maybe the car was flooded and sat in some bad FL wet stuff for a while?

Klim? Anything you might know about the cars previous history?

 

The 1980-84 USA cars did not have engine oil coolers in the radiator. 1978 did , Euro cars did 1985 > all have them BUT once again I am wrong about the 79 USA ,it did not !! Sorry Heinrich about the abuse.......but I know you love it

 

Actually I contacted the PO and he said that he doesn't know anything about "under hood space".
So, tomorrow I am going to find out for sure if the block leaks.
Yeah, before the winter I tried to start the car, and the engine turned perfectly. I assume if there would be a water inside the engine, it would rust and would not turn. Am I right?

Thanks,

Klim

 

Hahahaa ... aaaaaaaaaaaaahahahaaaaaa ...

MMMMMOOOOOOOOOOOOOHAHAHAHAH!!!!!!!


Jim, a little abuse between friends never bothered me .... and let's face it, how often am I right, and you're wrong ... I'll savour this, the opportunity doesn't come around often.

 

Hey.
Today I finished doing the cooling system check. When I removed the oil drain plug, a little bit of liquid went out. It looked like oil but the consistency wasn't viscous enough to be oil. So I think that I actually have the crack. It seems strange, becouse I only got something about 100mL of liquid even though the car was standing about 24 hours, and when I removed the expansion tank cap, I still could hear that there was some compression left. So, it might be the liquid which was there before but didn't drain completely(even though it was standing with removed drain plug for half an hour)
Any thoughts on what to do next?
Maybe I should try again, with colred water? Or should I just drop a little bit of oil in each cylinder, turn it by hand, and then try to turn the car on?

Thanks,

Klim

 

Since the test result was not definitive, I'd be tempted to repeat it. Before doing so, jack the passenger side up with the sump drain plug out - and chase out every drop of whatever is left. Swab it out with a home made 'Q-Tip' if you have to (absorptive towel taped to a length of coat hanger, etc.).
Then repeat, and trust on finding a dry sump. If that works cold, add the oil - and go for a warm running test - carefully monitoring both oil and coolant levels.

 

Klim .."I got about 5 liters of water to come out first and then dirty oil came out." At this point in time how about you put a little oil in the cylinders and try turning the engine on the starter motor spark plugs out maybe do a compression test ? If it has compression you might as well put the plugs in and try starting it .....if it is cracked/ broken trying to start it really is not going to make things any worse. You have NEVER seen it run ? But 5 liters of water is a LOT OF WATER.........

 

Thanks.
If I really do have a cracked block, and I will try to start the car, what will I break?
Becouse If I will mess up a lot of parts, I might better try to do a rebuilt or try to sell the parts individually (15000miles is not a lot) to pay for a new engine.

Klim

 

I know I am annoying, but I have two more questions:
1. What will I mess up if I will start the engine with cracked block?
2. In my manual, there are special tools for rebuilding the engine. Can I get this kind of tools somewhere, or I can use something different?

Thanks,

Klim

 

If the engine block is cracked basically there is nothing of any value left of that engine.......4.5 crankshafts,pistons,heads bring little on E-bay. But back to my question has this car EVER run since you have owned it ? Have you driven it ?

 

I agree with Jim, at this point, what's the downside to bumping it around some? Put coolant in where coolant goes, put oil in where oil goes. Take out plugs, to prevent hydrolock if there's water in the upper end. Squirt some Marvel down each hole, and try bumping it with the starter. If you're paranoid about that, try using the 27mm on the front crank nut. If it goes around without binding, crank it a bit.

Let us know the results of the test, and then proceed from there. It sounds like the cooling system has integrity(cold), so the water may have come from flood damage. It might be good to drain the fuel system too. That might have gobs of water as well.

I don't think bearings will rust from the water in the oil gallery, unless there is a space for air too, you need gasious oxegen to create rust (oxidation), and typically there's very little air in the oil galleries. Just oil, and in this case water/sludge.

 

Maybe someone on this forum can do a Carfax report on the serial number and see if it has been listed as a victim of flood damage by an insurance company. Or some sort of report on this car that might lead to some information about the car.