Oil Pan off - IS THIS COLOR NORMAL??
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Oil Pan off - IS THIS COLOR NORMAL??
It's not as 'rusty-colored' as in the pic - I guess I was expecting it to be a little more 'silvery'...
IS THIS NORMAL?
IS THIS NORMAL?
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Originally Posted by Thaddeus
Almost looks like varnish deposits. Will a dab of paint thinner wipe the stuff off?
I guess the next few days when I get to the rod bearings - if there's any damage - it'll show up there! (Engine has been running GREAT ever since I got the car...)
#6
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It's typical staining. I've seen it on many engines over the years. Nothing to worry about. I wouldn't bother cleaning it either. After all the rest of the engine is like that too. It's sort of like tea/coffy stains in a mug.
Now if you would see a heavy wax like built up, then I would start worrying about the PO not changing the oil on a regular basis.
I hope this helps!
Now if you would see a heavy wax like built up, then I would start worrying about the PO not changing the oil on a regular basis.
I hope this helps!
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#8
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Here's mine:
(the steam is from my sweaty hands...I just took off my latex gloves and it was quite cold in the garage that night)
(the steam is from my sweaty hands...I just took off my latex gloves and it was quite cold in the garage that night)
#10
Synthetics are much less prone to becoming varnish, and this is why mobil 1 was advertised as a 25000 mile motor oil when it first came out. Engine heat cooks natural oils into real varnish. I have seen early volvo OHC engines siezeing their camshafts in varnish because of infrequent oil changes and high temps., but varnish rarely forms on the oil film areas of an engine. I have had American V8s apart that looked like a barbeque grill in the lifter gallery, and if those flakes ever get picked up by the oil pump it is good bye bearings, cause varnish is hard carbon deposits. Thats why I go for synthetic oil esp. for turbos, and shorter duration changes in hard worked engines. varnish and coke deposits are pretty much the same thing. It can stick up rings and lifters especially in engines that are parked for long periods with old oil. Your engine is fine. You could do the rislone or marvel thing, but if it ain't broke why bother?
#11
The stain is deterioration or cooking of the oil on the aluminum, I see it a lot in cars running Castrol GTS 20w 50. Normally nothing to worry about. Is the engine still in the car, if so do you mind telling me what steps you took to pull the pan. i need to inspect my Crank on my 1988 S4.
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Hi,
Mark - what oil had this engine been on?. It appears from the picture that you have already done some cleaning - is this so?
If so what did you use - a solvent?
Dave - what oil were you using prior to pan removal?
Regards
Mark - what oil had this engine been on?. It appears from the picture that you have already done some cleaning - is this so?
If so what did you use - a solvent?
Dave - what oil were you using prior to pan removal?
Regards
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Originally Posted by Doug Hillary
Hi,
Mark - what oil had this engine been on?. It appears from the picture that you have already done some cleaning - is this so?
If so what did you use - a solvent?
Dave - what oil were you using prior to pan removal?
Regards
Mark - what oil had this engine been on?. It appears from the picture that you have already done some cleaning - is this so?
If so what did you use - a solvent?
Dave - what oil were you using prior to pan removal?
Regards
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Thanks again all - for assuring me all was ok!
I have been using the GTX20-50....Guess I MIGHT try the synthetic - but I have heard so many reports of seals leaking with it in older engines...
Bill - Pulling the pan is a PAININTHEASS!!!!!!!
You have to drop the steering rack, crossmember, starter, alt and ac compressor to even get to it.
THere are 30 (THIRTY!) bolts holding it on - 3/4 are a breeze to remove...BUT there are several (specifically the 4 on the front) that are quite difficult to get to, and even with a gearwrench, you can only get about 1/8 turn at a time. Took me over an hour just to remove those 4. It's about 8-10 hours of labor just to get to them! If your planning on inspecting the crank - u might as well to the motor mounts and rod bearings - just cause you're already there!!!
There are a couple of reports of folks that have pulled a pan without dropping everything...having done it the 'old fashioned way' - I just don't see how it is possible.
I have been using the GTX20-50....Guess I MIGHT try the synthetic - but I have heard so many reports of seals leaking with it in older engines...
Originally Posted by Bill Morgan
The stain is deterioration or cooking of the oil on the aluminum, I see it a lot in cars running Castrol GTS 20w 50. Normally nothing to worry about. Is the engine still in the car, if so do you mind telling me what steps you took to pull the pan. i need to inspect my Crank on my 1988 S4.
You have to drop the steering rack, crossmember, starter, alt and ac compressor to even get to it.
THere are 30 (THIRTY!) bolts holding it on - 3/4 are a breeze to remove...BUT there are several (specifically the 4 on the front) that are quite difficult to get to, and even with a gearwrench, you can only get about 1/8 turn at a time. Took me over an hour just to remove those 4. It's about 8-10 hours of labor just to get to them! If your planning on inspecting the crank - u might as well to the motor mounts and rod bearings - just cause you're already there!!!
There are a couple of reports of folks that have pulled a pan without dropping everything...having done it the 'old fashioned way' - I just don't see how it is possible.