T-Belt Tracking, Checked It Out-Please Help!!
#46
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Mark:
All of those parts make sense. That thick washer actually holds the small roller in place and locates the idler arm at the correct distance, so that the tensioner roller is in the correct position. I've seen a few cars that have that washer missing, too. Can't figure out what people think when they have a big special washer left over after they complete a repair! Must be an extra???
greg
All of those parts make sense. That thick washer actually holds the small roller in place and locates the idler arm at the correct distance, so that the tensioner roller is in the correct position. I've seen a few cars that have that washer missing, too. Can't figure out what people think when they have a big special washer left over after they complete a repair! Must be an extra???
greg
I'm going to order the strap assembly you suggested and install it in the next few months when I pull then engine for mounts, cleaning and vacuum checks.
#47
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John:
Yours is the later style. You have no thick washer.....none required. Sounds like you also have all of the correct parts. The strap will help support the end of the pin, as I mentioned before.
greg brown
Yours is the later style. You have no thick washer.....none required. Sounds like you also have all of the correct parts. The strap will help support the end of the pin, as I mentioned before.
greg brown
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Finished assembling everything last night (didn't meet my midnight deadline, but at 1:30am all four tires were back on the ground and she was running.) The belt is tracking dead center, 4mm from back and 4mm from front of cam gears. I'm checking it after each trip until the re-tension in 500 miles.
What I've learned that's worth passing on:
1) Check the timing belt while the car is running!
I would have never seen the problem since it was a short deflection unless the engine just happend to stop at that point.
2) Don't replace the idler arm pivot bolt until the new water pump is installed in the car!
I put the new idler arm pivot bolt on the new waterpump before I started the whole TB/WP deal. Since I did that, I forgot the bolt still needed torquing once I put the water pump on the engine. That caused my whole problem.
3) Check EVERYTHING against the WSMs when you take it apart! This came from the first time I did the TB/WP. My PO had one washer in the wrong place on the idler arm (the thick one mentioned before in this thread) so the large roller was hitting the idler arm.
I'm surprised (and thankful) the engine didn't seize driving home from Virginia when I bought it.
4) Don't tighten anything on the belly pan until ALL of the screws are in place! I would have been in bed at midnight if it weren't for this. Those front ones are a beast even if only one screw in the back is tight.
5) Listen to your fellow rennlisters!!!! This is one I've tried to use from the beginning. Being a hard head, I like to do things my own way, but when you have so many people who've BTDT, pay attention. Others' experiences have saved me a ton of time and frustration, let me know when an idea won't work and given me great ideas too. Don't be such a stubborn, typical male, it may save your car or your life.
Thanks for the support Greg. The info is priceless.
What I've learned that's worth passing on:
1) Check the timing belt while the car is running!
![order](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/order.gif)
2) Don't replace the idler arm pivot bolt until the new water pump is installed in the car!
![nono](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/nono.gif)
3) Check EVERYTHING against the WSMs when you take it apart! This came from the first time I did the TB/WP. My PO had one washer in the wrong place on the idler arm (the thick one mentioned before in this thread) so the large roller was hitting the idler arm.
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
4) Don't tighten anything on the belly pan until ALL of the screws are in place! I would have been in bed at midnight if it weren't for this. Those front ones are a beast even if only one screw in the back is tight.
5) Listen to your fellow rennlisters!!!! This is one I've tried to use from the beginning. Being a hard head, I like to do things my own way, but when you have so many people who've BTDT, pay attention. Others' experiences have saved me a ton of time and frustration, let me know when an idea won't work and given me great ideas too. Don't be such a stubborn, typical male, it may save your car or your life.
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Originally Posted by GregBBRD
John:
Yours is the later style. You have no thick washer.....none required. Sounds like you also have all of the correct parts. The strap will help support the end of the pin, as I mentioned before.
greg brown
Yours is the later style. You have no thick washer.....none required. Sounds like you also have all of the correct parts. The strap will help support the end of the pin, as I mentioned before.
greg brown
![bigbye](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/xyxwave.gif)