Jim_H

I have had a new TB on for about 75 miles. I had to remove the pass side cam cover so checked the tension. It is in 1/4 to 1/3 area of the window, the looser side. I kinda want to leave it there. I am heading to SF next week though and wonder, since it's a new belt, if it is going to stretch too much. I also want to dyno it in the next 5 or 6 days. I think it is better to beon the looser side than tighter, it seems almost impossible for the belt to skip a tooth. i also think most belt failures are not from being loose. But then I know for a 'fact' that I plugged in the spade connector to the tensioner pulley ...

borland

Do you always move the cams and crankshaft to TDC like your supposed to before using the belt tension gage? That might be your problem.

The belt just can't stretch very much in only 75 miles after properly being tensioned. When properly adjusted, you should be able to push on the belt and see the idler arm move and tensioner's outer spring compress.

Jim_H

Yep, TDC. I only had it in the middle of the window (Kempf Gauge) anyway, so it moved maybe 1/2 of the window at most.
As I recall when we did Heinrich's in Portland by the time he got to Seattle it was pretty loose. My thoughts were that most of the stretching was done quickly, in the first 100 miles or so but even I don't base much on my thoughts.

Thaddeus

On my 86, I had to fiddle with the tension 2 or 3 times (with 100 miles of driving between fiddles) before it was dead on and the light didn't come on. It's a fussy little operation.

Jim_H

From a very knowledgable source I was told with the Kempf tool if you aren't on the 'tight' side of the window with the 5.0L or the warning light tends to go on.

Jim bailey - 928 International

Kempf's tool likes it tight ....... the early cars call for a setting of 4.5 later 5.0 +.3 when using the factory dial indicator....so 32 valve cars should be set closer to the top of the window scale.