Milkshake on dipstick after driving in rain
03-04-2005, 01:42 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Milkshake on dipstick after driving in rain
I've replaced the rubber o-ring on my dipstick, and I still get some milkshake on it after driving in the rain. In another post, I saw something about a dipstick tube gasket? Has anyone else had this experience or can offer some insight? I don't have any obvious oil leaks that I'm aware of, so I don't know how moisture is getting in, if oil isn't sloshing out in the same kind of fashion. I'm puzzled.
03-04-2005, 01:50 PM
#2
I would suggest you get your radiator pressure tested, how old is it? Do you maintain the correct coolent levels? It is common for the side internal coolers to get holes in them. You may also have a head gasket problem, my friend who has a workshop is doing one of these at present.
03-04-2005, 01:57 PM
#3
928 Collector
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Brian are you SURE it is only related to rain? Rain should give you no milkshake. How about you drain the crankcase just for peace of mind. If there is a lot of milkshake, you need to get it resolved.
03-04-2005, 02:07 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Check for 'milkshake' ( 'mousse' if you're a gourmet) under the oil fill cap. Jack it up on the right side to force any water towards the sump drain and drain a liter from a cold engine.
If this further indicates water, do all the checks Greg notes.
If this further indicates water, do all the checks Greg notes.
03-04-2005, 02:25 PM
#6
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Brian,
Is your coolant level OK? I've dealt with this problem before on my 88 and it turned out to be oil in the coolant tank when there was a pin hole on the radiator. Since the oil pressure is much greater than the coolant pressure, the oil wins the battle and pushes into the coolant. If coolant is in the crank case (also had this problem), the head gasket may be gone. At least it was in my case. At any rate, you should be able to tell by looking at your coolant level. The oil dipstick tube does have a small oring where it meets the sump. I added a bit of RTV sealant and have yet to have any problems. If you decide to pull the engine, I have the lift and stand you may use...I'm ~45 mins. north on 15. Let me know if you need a hand.
Is your coolant level OK? I've dealt with this problem before on my 88 and it turned out to be oil in the coolant tank when there was a pin hole on the radiator. Since the oil pressure is much greater than the coolant pressure, the oil wins the battle and pushes into the coolant. If coolant is in the crank case (also had this problem), the head gasket may be gone. At least it was in my case. At any rate, you should be able to tell by looking at your coolant level. The oil dipstick tube does have a small oring where it meets the sump. I added a bit of RTV sealant and have yet to have any problems. If you decide to pull the engine, I have the lift and stand you may use...I'm ~45 mins. north on 15. Let me know if you need a hand.
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03-04-2005, 02:33 PM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
The pan gasket was replaced when the engine was rebuilt, about a year ago.
The car has a different breather, which vents to atmosphere, and it sits outside over night. I do get milkshake in the breather system, which I assumed to be more a function of condensation/dewpoints--The breather lines get dewey, and the oil vapor passing through does its thing.
After I wipe off the milkshake from the dipstick (and get it out of the tube), the oil on the dipstick is not fouled at all. Moreover, after the last torrential rain, when I really had a lot of gunk on the dipstick, I had the oil changed and there was no milkshake in it. Repeated tests (every time I fill the gas tank, which is, unfortunately, frequent) during dry weather confirms this.
Head gaskets were replaced when the engine was rebuilt. I did have a mysterious coolant leak (disappearance would be a better description, since I could never see any puddle), but recently heard air leaking around the hoses at the expansion tank with the engine off during cool down, so I tightened those. Tank was replaced at the same time as the engine rebuild. Was thinking also that the cap might not be sealing right, Marc from DEVEK posted a while back that a bad batch of tanks had been put in circulation. Was thinking about changing out the expansion tank, but it's a PITA to remove with the engine in the car by the looks of things.
I was under the impression that if the headgaskets go the cars will overheat. Also, I don't have any oil in my coolant, which I would expect due to the pressure differentials if there was mixing due to head gasket or radiator/cooler failures. There is a tag on the radiator indicating that the PO had something repaired at somewhat. But again, no evidence of oil in the coolant or in the expansion tank.
I'm almost positive it's entirely attributable to driving on wet roads, and that the problem is isolated to the dipstick tube somewhere.
I am having the car serviced later this month at Precision, but was hoping to narrow it down before then.
Andy, other than that, the car is running great. I am planning to remove the fuel rails and SC this weekend, to re-Right Stuff the copper tube that goes to the bypass valve, since I can hear a vacuum whistle around it. I'm also going to use loctite blue on the manifold bolts, too, since they tend to work themselves loose. And I got new rubber o-rings for the injectors, which i will switch with the rails off. Regarding the rich idle: I did an LH reset after putting in the lower FPR, and now AFM hunts properly during idle, rather than staying constantly rich. So that problem is resolved. Hooray!
Did you have some suggestions about how to drill out a hole to tap for a helicoil without removing and disassembling the manifold?
I thought I saw a hint about that somewhere...
The only comment I would have re: how the Supermodel system could be upgraded is regarding the intake and air filter. It's a bit unsightly to have the tubing smashed over the radiator and the air filter jammed between the radiator and nose of the car. It's the only thing, IMO, that isn't absolutely perfect. I know it's on your to-do list.
Andy has been VERY good about continuing to upgrade the systems. I was one of the guys who he flew across the country and stayed up until 3am to help out, and am profoundly grateful for his assistance.
The car has a different breather, which vents to atmosphere, and it sits outside over night. I do get milkshake in the breather system, which I assumed to be more a function of condensation/dewpoints--The breather lines get dewey, and the oil vapor passing through does its thing.
After I wipe off the milkshake from the dipstick (and get it out of the tube), the oil on the dipstick is not fouled at all. Moreover, after the last torrential rain, when I really had a lot of gunk on the dipstick, I had the oil changed and there was no milkshake in it. Repeated tests (every time I fill the gas tank, which is, unfortunately, frequent) during dry weather confirms this.
Head gaskets were replaced when the engine was rebuilt. I did have a mysterious coolant leak (disappearance would be a better description, since I could never see any puddle), but recently heard air leaking around the hoses at the expansion tank with the engine off during cool down, so I tightened those. Tank was replaced at the same time as the engine rebuild. Was thinking also that the cap might not be sealing right, Marc from DEVEK posted a while back that a bad batch of tanks had been put in circulation. Was thinking about changing out the expansion tank, but it's a PITA to remove with the engine in the car by the looks of things.
I was under the impression that if the headgaskets go the cars will overheat. Also, I don't have any oil in my coolant, which I would expect due to the pressure differentials if there was mixing due to head gasket or radiator/cooler failures. There is a tag on the radiator indicating that the PO had something repaired at somewhat. But again, no evidence of oil in the coolant or in the expansion tank.
I'm almost positive it's entirely attributable to driving on wet roads, and that the problem is isolated to the dipstick tube somewhere.
I am having the car serviced later this month at Precision, but was hoping to narrow it down before then.
Andy, other than that, the car is running great. I am planning to remove the fuel rails and SC this weekend, to re-Right Stuff the copper tube that goes to the bypass valve, since I can hear a vacuum whistle around it. I'm also going to use loctite blue on the manifold bolts, too, since they tend to work themselves loose. And I got new rubber o-rings for the injectors, which i will switch with the rails off. Regarding the rich idle: I did an LH reset after putting in the lower FPR, and now AFM hunts properly during idle, rather than staying constantly rich. So that problem is resolved. Hooray!
Did you have some suggestions about how to drill out a hole to tap for a helicoil without removing and disassembling the manifold?
I thought I saw a hint about that somewhere...The only comment I would have re: how the Supermodel system could be upgraded is regarding the intake and air filter. It's a bit unsightly to have the tubing smashed over the radiator and the air filter jammed between the radiator and nose of the car. It's the only thing, IMO, that isn't absolutely perfect. I know it's on your to-do list.
Andy has been VERY good about continuing to upgrade the systems. I was one of the guys who he flew across the country and stayed up until 3am to help out, and am profoundly grateful for his assistance.
03-04-2005, 02:40 PM
#9
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Yeah, when I had a bad oil cooler in the radiator, I got oil in the coolant, not coolant in the oil.
I get milkshake too, but mine burps out via the breather system.
My guess is that your milkshake is staying in the crankcase.
The oil probably gets more foamy due to the moisture in the air,
and water condensing in the crankcase, due to temperature difference
between the outside air and the internal temperature.
I get milkshake too, but mine burps out via the breather system.
My guess is that your milkshake is staying in the crankcase.
The oil probably gets more foamy due to the moisture in the air,
and water condensing in the crankcase, due to temperature difference
between the outside air and the internal temperature.
