Flywheel Removal Problem
03-04-2005, 01:34 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by Bill Ball
Off the top of my head, I can't give you any other ways to hold the bit in. Anybody else?
I don't think it would hurt to get some PB Blaster on the bolts. That, some tapping on the bolts (vibration helps draw in the Blaster) and some heat. Might not help a bunch. But it cannot hurt.
Might not be a bad idea to order a new set of flywheel bolts as it sounds like they are going to be worse for the wear once the flywheels out.
Good Luck John.
03-05-2005, 06:47 PM
#17
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Got it!!! Cut the tripple-square socket short and picked up a short 13mm socket for a 1/2" socket wrench. The 1/2" socket wrench was longer so it gave me the torque I needed to just pop them off.
Flywheel came off easily, just peeling the RMS out a bit at a time as it just falls apart. Pull out the pilot bearing and put the new seal and bearing in and I'm ready to go. Hopefully have her back on the road tomorrow.
Later folks!
Flywheel came off easily, just peeling the RMS out a bit at a time as it just falls apart. Pull out the pilot bearing and put the new seal and bearing in and I'm ready to go. Hopefully have her back on the road tomorrow.
Later folks!
03-05-2005, 11:12 PM
#18
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Good for you John! Glad you got'em out. Careful with the new RMS. Make sure you don't score the crank and put new oil on the inner lips of the RMS.
03-05-2005, 11:28 PM
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Yup. Put motor oil on the inner lips where they contact the crank. Otherwise the heat generated by the friction of the crank will melt just enough of the new unoiled lips before they get oil from the crank to allow the new RMS to leak. The oil on the lip protects the seal during the first startup after RMS R&R.
03-06-2005, 01:29 PM
#21
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FWIW, it's recommended to replace the flywheel bolts once they've been removed. Something about the initial torque stretch or something. I used new for piece of mind. YMMV.
05-15-2011, 01:54 PM
#22
Drifting
Sorry to bring back this old thread.
My question is;
Can the bottom for the bell housing be cut directly under the driveshaft and then the bell housing could be unbolted, rotated 180 deg and lowered out of the way.
Between the bottom bolts behind where I have the vise-grip
That would make for a lot less future work.
What are your thoughts.
Brad
My question is;
Can the bottom for the bell housing be cut directly under the driveshaft and then the bell housing could be unbolted, rotated 180 deg and lowered out of the way.
Between the bottom bolts behind where I have the vise-grip
That would make for a lot less future work.
What are your thoughts.
Brad
05-15-2011, 04:45 PM
#23
Under the Lift
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Well, it's been done for the reason you mention, but I have avoided it. What are you trying to do? Remove the flywheel? Look at my writeup. Yes, it's more work.
http://www.billsworkshop.com/P928S4/seal/seal.htm
http://www.billsworkshop.com/P928S4/seal/seal.htm