Anyone ever re-coated cam gears?
#1
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My old gears are worn and unusable. However, I have another used set that are missing a little of the protective coating on the tops of the gear teeth and none missing in the rounded valleys. They aren't cupped at all, so the underlying metal isn't worn.
So...is it possible to get the gears re-coated? Has anyone ever tried?
Are the gears anodized...coated with teflon...something else?
So...is it possible to get the gears re-coated? Has anyone ever tried?
Are the gears anodized...coated with teflon...something else?
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Randy? Price?
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Don't know about poly bend but I will be powder coating my valve covers and intake this weekend. I need to drop by harbour freight to get the kit and will post some pics when I'm done (depending on the result :-)
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Originally Posted by Big Dave
Randy c'mon back! How do you re-coat them?
Check out http://www.techlinecoatings.com/index.htm
I just ordered a bunch of stuff from them and they may have something appropriate for your cam gears.
Tom Cloutier
www.thePowerBroker.net
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We have our own setup, we can Poly Moly them for you. In fact we are equiped to ceramic coat via plasma sprayer, Poly coat, powder coat, dry film lube coat, and a few other things. I would be glad to do it for you for the cost of the material like $5.00 each we are not a business just a couple guys having a lot of fun at the moment doing things we love! The Poly coating is a shop equiped job only but like I said we would be more than happy to do two cam sprockets for you. We can beed blast them apply the coating and cure them and have them back in a few days to you. We are also building an anodizing tank so we will be able to pretty up aluminum parts via this method soon. We update our hobby website with the diffrent things we are doing so check it out every once in awhile.
rr-raceworks.com
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I'd love to have that done too!! Of course it would make most sense using nice ones. So Randy, what would be the most durable coating you guys could apply? <APPLAUSE!!>
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Well I guess you need to think of it in two parts,
1. Color Treating (Anodizing, paint etc...)
2. Protective Coating (Dry film Poly, Ceramic, Powder etc...)
The original gears are more color anodized for corrosion protection and cosmetics. The work that I can do is more coating. I think powder coated sprockets would look very sharp but I have concerns about the durability if the coating under belt loads and havent done any exstensive testing to date. The coating I am recommending going with is a Poly Moly dry lubricant that seems to have long life and in my opinion may help increase belt life as it has a natural lubricating tendancy verses the dry running sprokects originally equiped. Dry film lubricants applied properly have very long wear life and decrease friction of running components. While Poly Moly will not be nearly as attractive as Powder coating I think it will perform better over time. Lets face it once the covers are on you will not see them anyway. My goal it to reduce belt wear and protect against aluminum oxydation over time.
To directly awnser the question cosmetically the best coating would be to anodize the sprockets. The next best treatment in my opinion would be to Dry Film Poly them while this will not be as visualy pleasing it will provide the needed protection and functionality. I hope this helps.
One of the things this topic has got me thinking about is working to delelop a powder coating with a built in lubricating property that wears well over time. I think Rick and I will be playing around in the shop this weekend mixing chemicals and running tests to see what we can come up with. Ill let you all know if we make any progress. We are always willing and glad to help out fellow Rennlist members as long as we do not start having to come out of pocket. You pay the shipping and for the material and we will be more than happy to treat your parts. We can do ----
Crank Journals in oil retaining in Dry film Lube
Rod Journalsi n oil retaining in Dry film Lube
Piston Skirts in oil retaining in Dry film Lube
Piston Tops in ceramic
Combustion Chambers in ceramic
Vavle faces in ceramic
Valve stems and guides in oil retaining in Dry film Lube
Valve Springs in oil retaining in Dry film Lube
Oil Pan in oil shedding film
Rods in oil shedding lube
Crank rough areas in oil shedding lube
We also have a sheet metal machine, Tig welder, Hydraulic exhaust bender and a few other toys.....
1. Color Treating (Anodizing, paint etc...)
2. Protective Coating (Dry film Poly, Ceramic, Powder etc...)
The original gears are more color anodized for corrosion protection and cosmetics. The work that I can do is more coating. I think powder coated sprockets would look very sharp but I have concerns about the durability if the coating under belt loads and havent done any exstensive testing to date. The coating I am recommending going with is a Poly Moly dry lubricant that seems to have long life and in my opinion may help increase belt life as it has a natural lubricating tendancy verses the dry running sprokects originally equiped. Dry film lubricants applied properly have very long wear life and decrease friction of running components. While Poly Moly will not be nearly as attractive as Powder coating I think it will perform better over time. Lets face it once the covers are on you will not see them anyway. My goal it to reduce belt wear and protect against aluminum oxydation over time.
To directly awnser the question cosmetically the best coating would be to anodize the sprockets. The next best treatment in my opinion would be to Dry Film Poly them while this will not be as visualy pleasing it will provide the needed protection and functionality. I hope this helps.
One of the things this topic has got me thinking about is working to delelop a powder coating with a built in lubricating property that wears well over time. I think Rick and I will be playing around in the shop this weekend mixing chemicals and running tests to see what we can come up with. Ill let you all know if we make any progress. We are always willing and glad to help out fellow Rennlist members as long as we do not start having to come out of pocket. You pay the shipping and for the material and we will be more than happy to treat your parts. We can do ----
Crank Journals in oil retaining in Dry film Lube
Rod Journalsi n oil retaining in Dry film Lube
Piston Skirts in oil retaining in Dry film Lube
Piston Tops in ceramic
Combustion Chambers in ceramic
Vavle faces in ceramic
Valve stems and guides in oil retaining in Dry film Lube
Valve Springs in oil retaining in Dry film Lube
Oil Pan in oil shedding film
Rods in oil shedding lube
Crank rough areas in oil shedding lube
We also have a sheet metal machine, Tig welder, Hydraulic exhaust bender and a few other toys.....