Turns out my minor oil leak is due to a ruptured oil breather hose which goes from the front passenger valve cover and disapears under the intake.
it has a 1/2" crack right before it goes under the intake manifold.
Can I replace it without pulling the intake off? Repair / patch it in place?
Thanks and regards,
Sab.

 

That hose goes to the oil filler neck.

Maaaaayybe. You would certainly need to remove the fuel rail and at least one of the injectors. If all you need to do is replace that one hose you don't need to actually remove the intake. You just need to get the intake loose so that you can tilt it up. That's about 50% of the work of the entire intake R&R though.

Remove both injector rails and (to the extent you need wrench space) the injectors. Unbolt the intake. Make sure the harnesses to the WOT switch, MAS, and idle stabilizer have an inch or two of slack. Also disconnect the vacuum lines from the airpump valve and fuel vapor valve. (Do that to ensure that you don't pull the vacuum lines loose from the bottom of the t-body.) And disconnect the four-way next to the MAS (for the same reason.) Lift the intake up and set it on the studs. Replace hose. Lather, rinse, and repeat in reverse with lub in the right places (injector o-rings, intake pressure gaskets, etc.)

Some brake parts cleaner and duct tape?

 

Re. patch job - if there is enough room to play, and the hose is still good enough to survive cutting, there may be a way to buy time: With a razor blade and a backing wood piece ( or a very sharp set of shears), carefully cut out the damage. Insert a stub of the correct diameter tubing ( eg., copper water pipe) and two small hose clamps to rejoin.
When you go into the manifold removal, there are likely many other things to be done - so buy some time with this if you can - and read up .....

 

hello Sab...

I had the same problem. The hose can be replaced without taking the intake manifold off. You would have to remove the water manifold and the oil filler neck...not too hard to do. I figured this out after looking at John Pritle's site:

http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html (check the cooling system section)

If you look at the last picture, after taking out the water manifold, you can access the 2 screws that hold the oil filler neck and the clamp that holds the breather hose.

By removing the the water manifold and filler neck, you'll be able to clean all of the oil in the "V". In addition, I changed:

both breather hoses
both knock sensors (after removing the MAF)
thermostat
rear thermostat seal (you should change this)

Hope this information helps...good luck.

Roger

 

Roger, how did you get a torque wrench to the knock sensors with the intake in place? Or, for that matter the rear bolts on the coolant crossover?

 

The only items that you cannot reach are the TPS and idle stabilizer .. both might be owrth replacing with an intake job ..also good time to spice up the engine compartment new intake paint !

 

Worf...

It took me a while to figure out how to get the knock sensors off. I bought a set of crows foot sockets. Similar to these:

http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_g...rows+foot+tool

By using this type of socket, you are able to use an extension on the torque wrenck.

The water manifold was only held by 4-5 socket head screws which can be accessed from above. I remember using an allen wrench for those.

Roger

 

Hmm... with the crossover out and the filler neck off I can visualize the possibility. You would need to calibrate for the offset of the crows foot wrench when setting the torque wrench.

What about torquing the bolts that are partially occluded by the intake?


I have to wonder.... if one is going to the trouble of removing the crossover and replacing a knock sensor and replacing some breather hoses, why not simply remove the intake and get it out of the way completely? Intake of the R&R is not that long of a job.

 

I remember looking at the torque specs for the knock sensors and setting the wrench...I didn't even think about possibily changing the specs due to the type of tool. So far, it hasn't fallen out

I originally thought of removing the intake but then...I stated thinking of the "WYAT" (while you are there) items that I'd like to do.

Powder coat intake (which everyone knows you can't do unless you power coat the valve covers too)
Replace all of the gaskets
Replace injector seals
Plate all the hardware
Plate the fuel rails
etc....=$$$$$$

So I decided to only fix only what needed fixing (Items that needed to be replaced). So I guess the way to look at it is...if you have the time and money, remove the intake. If you don't, removing the water manifold is an alternative.

I do plan to remove the intake one day (hopefully it's for a SC installation), but for now, it can wait.

 

I asked a mechanic once to replace my leaking oil breather hose while he had the thermostat housing off my '85S and was doing a T-belt job and he forgot. He was quite few miles away (300) from me but he said that he could change that hose in about 15 minutes with the manifold in place....and offered to drop by and do it in few weeks. But I got in a hurry, ordered the hose, and did it myself. Took me 3 or so hours! Next time will be quicker now that I know what has to happen. You need to get the hose clamp screw next to the oil filler oriented (flashlights and long thin screwdrivers) so you can slip another very thin and long screw driver in from the front of the manifold and loosen it...then loosen the other end...work the hose off (I lost a clamp down under the manifold tubes somewhere), then do a couple hours worth of Houdini tricks to get the new hose snaked back into place, clamp on the hose, hose tip positioned over the nossel/nipple by the oil intake, and so on. It can be done cause I did it...I suspect it can't be too different than performing prostate surgery....and I seem to have two left arms when it comes to 928's. In fact, I have now replaced all the hoses on my 85S by just removing the rear mainfold tube and the center manifold tube, both of which I found to be pretty easy to replace. I didn't want to remove the maniford from the block or any gas feed tubes because of several reasons, plus the gasket replacement cost. The hoses alone cost nearly $400. Maybe someone who knows what they're doing can do it in 15 minutes...and if you deduct all my head scratching and cussing....I might have too. Eventually your hands will heal up from the cuts.

Harvey

 

OK, after a long spirited drive to Sebring this weekend the oil breather hose has now fully disintegrated and needs to be changed. I have now a pretty significant oil leak and can't postpone anymore.

Thanks for all the suggestions, I will attempt to remove the water manifold and replace the hose from the front.

A couple of questions:
- The left side rear alan bolt seems to be partially under the intake, anyone removed that one without stripping it?
- Any special procedure on opening up the fuel system? I guess I will have to remove at least one line on the fuel dampener.
- I ordered gaskets and a thermostat, any other WYAIT?

Thanks and regards,
Sab.

 

Be v careful with those alan bolts, we tried to do a 90GT from the front but because the bolts were in there extra tight had to remove the intake and even then they released with a very large crack.

For draining fuel use the bolt on the front of the passenger fuel rail, leave the car overnight at least, this will help reduce the fuel pressure in the system. A small container under the rail usually suffices.

Good luck.

Chris

 

Ok, the bolts are out, fuel dampener out of the way and the water intake wiggels freely. BUT it does not come out, it seems to be too big to clear the oil filler and intake????

EDIT>>>>

NEVER MIND IT IS OUT!!!

 

I replaced the same hose on my 87 and did not have to remove anything else. It did take 2 or3 hours
and the hard part was trying to secure the hose clamp at the oil filler.

 

Thanks, I got it all apart and am now waiting for the parts to arrive hopefully tomorrow...