Never Again
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,387
Likes: 77
From: London, UK
Originally Posted by drnick
paul thats so funny but it must have been terrible! i cant even lift my car without a trolley jack and i dont own one. anything that needs access underneath and im off to a garage. by the way, with my current oil consumption i stick to the 12K change as im sure it actualy gets ahcnged during the interval.
, got 19mpg average fuel consumption which was not bad at all... Must have been down to the 1.8 litres of oil which the S2 gulped.The GT with the brand new engine is a different story all together - not a drop of oil so far - about 1000 miles of very, very spirited driving
928 Collector
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,270
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From: Seattle
Paul you did mean business didn't you 
... I have seen these and you could theoretically snake this guy into your sump, but you need to ensure that the tube is very slippery for extraction past the crank etc. Should work fine. You'll still have to do a bit of draining at the bottom. Have you looked at one of those tapped drain plugs? That may help substantially.
Supercharged
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Back in Michigan - Full time!
Paul-
You do know you are supposed to use a catch basin for the old oil, right?
JK. But seriously, that thing look like it would be more hassel than it's worth. I changed the oil a couple of weeks ago without spilling a drop. I'm sure you know this, but I'll go over it anyway.
First thing is to open the filler and pull the dip stick. Then position the center of a wide basin (18"-24" diameter) to the driver's side of the drain bolt - while keeping the edge of the basin under the drain bolt. Loosen the drain bolt, and then remove by hand. Hopefully your aim is good enough so the oil ends up in the basin. It should be. Then, and this is where I always have problems, remove the oil filter. Last time, I used a suggestion from a fellow rennlister (I forget who) who said to punch the bottom of the filter with a screwdriver and let the oil drain out and then remove it. A note on this process. Makre sure you losen the filter first, then punch it, otherwise your filter wrench will get all messy. But it works quite well. I let it sit like this for about 10 minutes, and by then the pan was empty and the filter was just dripping a little. Now I removed the filter - WITHOUT THE BIG MESS - and put on the new filter (pre-filled halfway of course) with a thin coat of oil on the gasket. Snugged it up. Then I put the drain bolt back on with a new crush ring and tightened to the right torque specs. Filled her up with oil. Started it up - NO LEAKS! Shut it off, had a beer, cleaned up, relaxed. I think you can do it... give one more try before spending more money on crap you don't need.
You do know you are supposed to use a catch basin for the old oil, right?
JK. But seriously, that thing look like it would be more hassel than it's worth. I changed the oil a couple of weeks ago without spilling a drop. I'm sure you know this, but I'll go over it anyway.First thing is to open the filler and pull the dip stick. Then position the center of a wide basin (18"-24" diameter) to the driver's side of the drain bolt - while keeping the edge of the basin under the drain bolt. Loosen the drain bolt, and then remove by hand. Hopefully your aim is good enough so the oil ends up in the basin. It should be. Then, and this is where I always have problems, remove the oil filter. Last time, I used a suggestion from a fellow rennlister (I forget who) who said to punch the bottom of the filter with a screwdriver and let the oil drain out and then remove it. A note on this process. Makre sure you losen the filter first, then punch it, otherwise your filter wrench will get all messy. But it works quite well. I let it sit like this for about 10 minutes, and by then the pan was empty and the filter was just dripping a little. Now I removed the filter - WITHOUT THE BIG MESS - and put on the new filter (pre-filled halfway of course) with a thin coat of oil on the gasket. Snugged it up. Then I put the drain bolt back on with a new crush ring and tightened to the right torque specs. Filled her up with oil. Started it up - NO LEAKS! Shut it off, had a beer, cleaned up, relaxed. I think you can do it... give one more try before spending more money on crap you don't need.
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,210
Likes: 17
From: Nova Scotia
Man, that deal looks like a rig the vet uses to give enemas: one missed stroke, and .....
This may be the drain rig Heinrich referred to - a locking ball valve . Actually works great. I had to seal up the POs stripped pan threads, so used this to avoid reopening a problem. Oil draining is truly drip free, as Andrew describes; however, with this ball **** valve, a liter at a time could be let out.
This may be the drain rig Heinrich referred to - a locking ball valve . Actually works great. I had to seal up the POs stripped pan threads, so used this to avoid reopening a problem. Oil draining is truly drip free, as Andrew describes; however, with this ball **** valve, a liter at a time could be let out.
