Relay Removal tool
#16
>Other than $44.05, what's the difference in the OTC and the Porsche one? Thanks.
Different designs, the Porsche one is a pair of pliers with small angle peices welded on, the OTC is a purpose built design. I have photos of both on the website, look under Accessories > Tools, or Maintenance > Tools, or just search for "Relay remover".
Different designs, the Porsche one is a pair of pliers with small angle peices welded on, the OTC is a purpose built design. I have photos of both on the website, look under Accessories > Tools, or Maintenance > Tools, or just search for "Relay remover".
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David Roberts
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David Roberts
2010 Jaguar XKR Coupe - 510HP Stock - Liquid Silver Metallic
928 Owners Club Co-Founder
Rennlist 928 Forum Main Sponsor
www.928gt.com
928 Specialists on Facebook - 928Specialists
Sharks in the Mountains on Facebook - 928SITM
#18
Here ya go... Vaughan Tools, bottom of page. I've been trying to think of a way to make a non-conductive equivalent, but most plastics just aren't up to this.
http://www.vaughanmfg.com/superbar.htm
http://www.vaughanmfg.com/superbar.htm
#19
>Yep, found it on your website, just wondering if the additional $44 was money well spent or if the >other accomplished the task and had the same end result. Thanks
The less expensive OTC tool is the one I recommend, but some people want just "Porsche Tools" hence the reason we offer both. Quite frankly I have broken 2 of the Porsche Tools, however Porsche did replace them under warranty.
The less expensive OTC tool is the one I recommend, but some people want just "Porsche Tools" hence the reason we offer both. Quite frankly I have broken 2 of the Porsche Tools, however Porsche did replace them under warranty.
#21
This is what i did...
Take one old used hack saw blade.
Cut it to appx 8"
Grind the old teeth down on a grinder.
Bend one end so you have appx 1/4" 90' bend.
Bend the other end appx 2" so you have somehting to grip and pull on
The big, important step. Place some shrink tubing on the end or some other insulating material as when you place it under the relay you may make contact with one of the pins.
This holds true with amy other tools as well....dental pick...bent scew driver etc... make sure you insulated the tips.
The saw blade is nice and thin and slides between all the relays. Pull on the tool with one hand and wiggle with the other! Works well and has been added to my little bag of jumper leads and fuses to "get me home"
Take one old used hack saw blade.
Cut it to appx 8"
Grind the old teeth down on a grinder.
Bend one end so you have appx 1/4" 90' bend.
Bend the other end appx 2" so you have somehting to grip and pull on
The big, important step. Place some shrink tubing on the end or some other insulating material as when you place it under the relay you may make contact with one of the pins.
This holds true with amy other tools as well....dental pick...bent scew driver etc... make sure you insulated the tips.
The saw blade is nice and thin and slides between all the relays. Pull on the tool with one hand and wiggle with the other! Works well and has been added to my little bag of jumper leads and fuses to "get me home"
#22
I found one of those mini-prybars in a box of cheapie tools in a Kent Kwik gas station/convienence store. $2.00.
I still use an old weed root cutter -screwdriver handle with a forked prong tip-.
I heated it up first then bent it 'almost' 90 degrees, then ground down the tips to a knife edge.
It slides under the edges easily and is strong enough to rock back and forth, is small enough to reposition virtually anywhere.
Battery disconnect ANYTIME you tinker with electrics
I still use an old weed root cutter -screwdriver handle with a forked prong tip-.
I heated it up first then bent it 'almost' 90 degrees, then ground down the tips to a knife edge.
It slides under the edges easily and is strong enough to rock back and forth, is small enough to reposition virtually anywhere.
Battery disconnect ANYTIME you tinker with electrics