pasa

Hi All

I am in the process of doing my motor mounts and I noticed that the oil pan gasket is seeping. I have decided to change the gasket but the parts supplier where I live say he can only get the gasket up to model year1988. I checked PET's and from 1985-1995 it shows the same part number can some one please confirm that all oil pan gaskets from 1985-1995 are the same(PET's part # 928 101 207 00). If I order the 1988 MY gasket will it fit my car?


Dan 1990 928gt

John Veninger

Same gasket for 78-95.

bigs

Check with one of the "big three"

928 International

928 Specialists

DEVEK

Probably get it cheaper. (I assume they'll ship to Hong Kong.)

pasa

Thanks guys,

just another quick question, how can I support the engine from below to get the oil pan gasket off?

Dan
1990 928gt

John Veninger

You can't. You need to support it from above.
This is a pretty major job since the steering rack needs to be dropped and also the crossmember.
If it is just seeping you may want to try and snug up the bolts. I mean snug, not tight. To tight and then it starts to leak even more.

John Veninger

This may help:
http://www.nichols.nu/tip427.htm

borland

I replaced the cork oil pan gasket on my 90' S4 back in June 2003. No leaks so far with Mobil 1. I supported the engine from below. You won’t get a torque wrench on all the bolts, so this a solution to that too.

From my prior post, here's how I did it:

Instead of tightening the pan bolts using a torque wrench, I tightening
them to a prescribed number of turns, yielding an even amount of desired
gasket compression. A 31% compression was selected based on the original
factory gasket installation, which still had an excellent seal in the
front of the engine. This compression is also consistent with the
compressibility ratings of many cork gasket materials I found on the
internet.

I purchased an Aftermarket gasket from 928 Intl. What they sold me was a
cork gasket with a nitrile (synthetic rubber) binder. My install method
will work on all cork gaskets regardless of the binder and no sealant is
required on the gasket seating surfaces or bolt threads.

Prior to engine cross brace removal, the engine and body were supported by
only four jack stands. Overhead engine support was not used. Jack stand
height adjustment is critical. Two stands were place under the front body
side jacking points, while the other two were place on the front flat
spots on each side of the clutch/bell housing. All jacking was done from
the rear side jacking points. Care must be taken when lowering the engine
on the clutch housing jack stands (to raise and support the engine), such
that the O2 sensor is not damage. To adjust the jack stand height under
the bell housing, I measured the floor to clutch housing distance, then
adjusted the two jack stands appropriately, and I taped two 2" x 2" square
x 1/4" thick steel washers (Home Depot) on top of each jack stand. Motor
mount bolts on engine block must be removed prior to raising the engine.

Degrease and clean all oil pan bolts. After degreasing the engine sides
and pan gasket surfaces, clean all engine block threads with an aerosol
brake cleaner to remove any dirt or grease. Since some of the block bolt
threads can become contaminated while cleaning the sides of the engine,
it's important to run a bolt in each one to ensure that they are clean.

Use acetone or other strong solvent to remove any engine oil stains from
the gasket seating surfaces.

With the new gasket placed on the oil pan, and using a floor jack with a
block of wood, jack the oil pan into place. Install all bolts finger
tight and so the gasket is snugly in place.

Mark the orientation of all bolt head tops with grease pencil.

Working around the engine in the same direction, tighten each bolt
sequentially 1/4 turn, until all bolts are 1 1/4 turn, except the last 1/4
turn should be done in 1/8 turn increments. You'll notice the tightening
will get progressively tighter, and the last 1/4 turn will be very tight.
Again, that's 1 1/4 turns each bolt. This is based on a new 4mm thick
gasket, and thread pitch of 0.1mm.

John Veninger

Ok let me take back "you can't"
How about "it's a bit easier with overhead support"

Garth S

For an alternative approach to the pan gasket, read https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...oil+pan+gasket.
By supporting the bellhousing and subsequently jacking there, loosening the motor mount brackets, and removing the air box for clearance - the engine can be adequately raised (~1.5" - 2") to drop the pan and feed a gasket in.
I used an available hand cut gasket made of a cork impregnated neoprene/rubber matrix. This gasket is ~ 1/2 the thickness of the cork - and can stand a lot of clamping force. Regardless. the oem cork gasket will do.
Yes, I cut the gasket ( well in accordance with good engineering practice in several chemical industries, should there be a concern) - although with the newer style oil pump pick-ups since ~ 1983, I believe the gasket could be fed around and underneath the pick-up without cutting: this is not feasible with the '80 style pickup.
There is almost always an alternative ... BTW, the pan & gasket are dry as a bone ...

Scott M.

Dan;

Since you'll have the pan off, this is a good time to check your rod bearings. WYIT

My quick suggestion is to pull the 2/6 rod bearings, if they look worn whatsoever replace them all. If they look good, leave 'em alone...

Scott

pasa

Thanks for all the info Guy's

Dan