side moulding removal
#1
side moulding removal
hi,
how do I remove side moldings w/o damage? I'm getting a used set off of a donor car.
There is a section on this in the WSM, but I totally don't get it. Please help!
MM
how do I remove side moldings w/o damage? I'm getting a used set off of a donor car.
There is a section on this in the WSM, but I totally don't get it. Please help!
MM
#2
The side moldings are kept in place by adhesive tape and by body clips. The moldings have posts on the back of them and are inserted into the body clips (plastic). To remove them you need to work carefully and slow. You will need to get behind the body panels the moldings are on to gently poke the molding post out of the clips and use something like a plastic putty knife to slowly work the adhesive tape loose. Protect the body panels surrounding the moldings by using lots of wide masking tape as you work the moldings loose.
#5
I do not agree on having to remove interior panels, I removed my moldings without removing the clips. I think the clips are ment to stay in the doors/fenders. "Just" pry the moldingscarefully off. I had to cut off the small bolts on the end of the door with a Dremel though(look behind the door seal).
Removing the glue holding the moldings was one of the worst jobs I have done on my 928, but my car was repainted and who knows what type of glue was used to put the mouldings back on...
Removing the glue holding the moldings was one of the worst jobs I have done on my 928, but my car was repainted and who knows what type of glue was used to put the mouldings back on...
#6
Yep, apart from the nut behind the rear of the door can pull them from the front, you'll likely break a couple fo the clips on the body but these are plastic and easily replacable. Just take it easy, cleaning the glue/foam from the body a real PIA.
Chris
Chris
#7
All previous are correct, but here is one more tip.
Use a heat gun or hair dryer to raise the temp as high as you can stand to still touch them. The glue will come off much easier, and the rub strips will be more flexible. Don't bend them so far that you crimp them.
Use a heat gun or hair dryer to raise the temp as high as you can stand to still touch them. The glue will come off much easier, and the rub strips will be more flexible. Don't bend them so far that you crimp them.
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#8
Originally Posted by gruffalo
crap, so I have to get to all the clips from behind? Fenders, doors, rear quarters, the works. It's gonna be a lot of work....
really hard to get out from the front. If you can get behind them you can actually poke the posts out of the clips from the back.
#10
Originally Posted by DFWX
Forwarding this so that I can find it easier...
Sounds like a ton of work.
Sounds like a ton of work.
You guys must really hate to side mouldings. Almost as bad as the "gotta have a 5-speed" crowd...
#11
Hi everyone - a question if I may?! Would performing the above allow the removal of the side mouldings without a need to paint or fill any holes? If so, I'll do it. Always liked the streamlined look of a shark in action
sjsj
sjsj
#12
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removing the sidemoldings leaves 8 holes in your car ...and adhesive that is tough to remove plus depending on the color diffferences in fade of the paint, Seams lines from any respray...etc. removal of the side moulding requires a full repaint of the car.
#15
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the two in the door maybe 1/4 inch the one in the fender about 1/2 inch same for the rear 1/4 s . The doors and fender being aluninum are more difficult to get welded without excessive heat distortion. The steel 1/4 panel is relatively easy .