AO

Got the front calipers off, took the hubs off so I could get the splash shiled off (gonna paint those Shiny black ) and am now prepping for the BJ R&R.

Before I order parts, thought I should ask if there are any WYAITs. Upper boots look good. When the tappered bearing fell off in my lap I thought, maybe I should replace these. Any thoughts on that? Should I replace them or just repack them? BTW, how does one repack bearings? Never done it before. What type of grease should i use?

Saw Thaddeus' write up from earlier this year about replacing the races. Sounds like a PITA! Don't want to got here unless it's really necessary.

Got a good deal on the new brackets for the ball joints - $65 for the pair (new) vs. $75ea from the big 3. Gonna order the rest of the parts tomorrow from the big 3 but wanted to make sure I included any additional things for this order.

Thanks dudes!

jpitman2

Get a proper ball joint separator tool (many threads on this), and try to get at least toe close to spec before doing much driving. Eg, after jacking, before removing wheels, try to mark some datum points on the floor, or with a level, showing where the wheel top, bottom, front, rear were in space, and adjust new eccentrics to as close as you can, so you dont lose too much rubber while settling the front down. The wheel gives you a bigger reference - I tried to do it with the disc, but it didnt work well. A laser pointer as used by Captn Earl pointed horizontally at wall in front and floor straight down, and marked would be a good start. Replacing the bottom bracket is the hardest part, as you have to unload the shock by dropping the bottom arm - you can leave the old brackets there, and either leave more thread showing on the studs, or cut the extra off...
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k, BTDT

Marc Schwager

I got a separator from harbor which worked fine. I would have killed myself (or worse dented the car :-) using the 2 hammer method! There really aren't any WYAITs that I can think of. You could replace the front engine mount shocks, but those are easy to do any time. I upgraded to the "S" brakes and adjustable height shocks, but mostly because someone had a spare set that they let go cheaply. I also did the tie rods which were a little worn which made the steering awesome! It's a good time to do them as you are going to realign anyway. I used the string method for the preliminary alignment which worked quite well.

AO

Good suggestions. I don't have a laser level, but now may be a good time to get one...

I'll update with pics and questions as I get into it. Now to order parts...

Rez

I'd tackle the suspension. Stock Boge's are like $95.00 a piece at 928 Int. I mean your that far anyway. I'd replace the upper boots, they're only $15.00 at said establishement. There are two bearings on each front wheel. One fell out for me, but the other will require heating of the hub and pressing out (this weekends project). I'm not sure if it's critical to replace the bearings as long as they are not rusty, pitted, etc. To repack, just goop some grease in your palm and work the bearing around with your other hand.

Also, time to check your CV boots, mine are toast. I agree with Marc on the tie rod's (thanks Marc, just another thing to inspect this weekend). I found this write up a while back and thought it was brillant. I would finish your hub work and put it back on, as well as the rotors. Sorry I can't give credit where it is deserved.

After pondering the problem for a while (I've had the new ball joints since last June) I came up with way to approximate the alignment & not trash my tires. You will need a laser level ($13 bucks at Costco) that shoots a "+" or crosshair pattern, a second level short enough to fit inside the wheel well and a "C" clamp.

First, jack up the front of your car, support it on jackstands and remove the front wheels. Then turn your steering wheel with the ignition off so that it locks in the straight ahead position. Next, take the laser level and clamp it to the brake rotor so that the laser points towards the floor. Place the second level against the laser level and adjust the laser level clamped to the brake rotor so that it is perpendicular to the floor. (By definition, the brake rotor tends to rotate.) Turn on the laser and cover the crosshair pattern on the floor with masking tape. Double check that your laser is still perpendicular to the floor and then take a "Sharpie" or similar pen and trace the laser crosshair on the masking tape using a straight edge. Turn off the laser, unlock the steering and turn the wheel so that you have access to which ever side you're starting on.

After you have replaced the ball joint and bolted everything back together, turn the steering wheel so that it locks in the straight ahead position again. Adjust the laser level so that it is again perpendicular to the floor. Turn on the laser and adjust the camber and caster eccentrics so that the laser crosshair lines up with the marks that you have previously traced on the floor, tighten the eccentric nuts, repeat on the other side and you're done!

Your alignment won't be any better than it was before you started, but it shouldn't be any worse either.

hupp

Marc,

Were you able to find the type of ball joint seperator illustrated in the WSM at Habor, or did you buy the pickle fork type.

AO

Rez-

I think that write up may have come from Cpt'n Earl. In any event, I think it might be better to buy the steering rack centering pin for $5 so that you'r sure you'r back in the same orentation.

Decided to do tie rod ends too! Thanks guys.

Rez

It wasn't the Captain. His write up was way over my head. I believe it was a newbie. I agree on the centering pin.