Door Warning Lights
#1
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Has anyone ever replaced the light bulbs for the (red square) door warning lights?
Not sure if the lens pops off or if I need to remove the door panel for access.
Not sure if the lens pops off or if I need to remove the door panel for access.
#2
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Once on an '80 - assume they are all the same: the lens popped off, eventually, and if you're lucky there will be just enough slack in the wires. The bulb is a 2-pin push & twist type ( thought I'd add that as you're unlikely to be able to see what's going on - now if there was more wire ....
).
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#3
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I have been doing this yesterday on the GT and cables were to short from outside.
Decided to remove doorside and fix some other stuff when in there.
Turned out that the lamp socket had rusted severly so I decided to buy a new instead.
Also had to change the connectors since there was rust inside those as well.
When measuring the voltage with the new connectors I only get 11,8 V, wires looked fresh and uncorroded, so I guess a bad ground needs to be found.
On the interior lamp in the door I get same voltage between red and brown/white but 12,2 V between red and brown?
Anyone familiar with were the ground point is on the drivers door cables?
/Peter
Decided to remove doorside and fix some other stuff when in there.
Turned out that the lamp socket had rusted severly so I decided to buy a new instead.
Also had to change the connectors since there was rust inside those as well.
When measuring the voltage with the new connectors I only get 11,8 V, wires looked fresh and uncorroded, so I guess a bad ground needs to be found.
On the interior lamp in the door I get same voltage between red and brown/white but 12,2 V between red and brown?
Anyone familiar with were the ground point is on the drivers door cables?
/Peter
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#4
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Peter,
The red wire should be the fused 12v supply to both the red door safety light and the 3-position switch for the lower door interior lamp - so if measured to ground, you have the correct value. The brown/white wires are the common path back to the pin switch in the door frame for both lights. This switch often corrodes: it closes as the door is opened, so any corrosion here is your voltage loss. The brown is the ground for the 'constant on' position for the 3-way interior light.
Sounds as if the pin switch is it!
The red wire should be the fused 12v supply to both the red door safety light and the 3-position switch for the lower door interior lamp - so if measured to ground, you have the correct value. The brown/white wires are the common path back to the pin switch in the door frame for both lights. This switch often corrodes: it closes as the door is opened, so any corrosion here is your voltage loss. The brown is the ground for the 'constant on' position for the 3-way interior light.
Sounds as if the pin switch is it!
#5
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Hi Garth,
you are propably right, i had it out the other night and it was a bit corroded.
Cleaned it and cured the delay in lighting the interior lights when opening the drivers door.
Will se if it will do with some more cleaning, if not another part for the shoppinglist.
Thanks/Peter
you are propably right, i had it out the other night and it was a bit corroded.
Cleaned it and cured the delay in lighting the interior lights when opening the drivers door.
Will se if it will do with some more cleaning, if not another part for the shoppinglist.
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Thanks/Peter
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